Motor mount removal and installation?

[PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3]

How the heck do you get the old motor mounts off? I've checked the FSM and couldnt find anything bout it, thanks for your help

andrew

[mmdb]

simply put:
1. jack up the front of the car
2. loosen the subframe bolts (do no drop the subframe)
3. unscrew motor mount
4. remove/replace

for more indepth explanation do a search.

[boosteds13]

simply put:
1. jack up the front of the car
2. loosen the subframe bolts (do no drop the subframe)
3. unscrew motor mount
4. remove/replace

for more indepth explanation do a search.
Provided they aren't stuck on there.

We had to battle with mine for over 5 hours just to get the driver's side mount off the crossmember. The nut ended up rounding off. We used a hacksaw, torch, drill, angle grinder, prybar, and one of those nuts that has the reverse threaded teeth.

[g6civcx]

The mounting nuts are 14mm. The heat shield nut is 12mm. It's best to use 6-point deep well sockets. 6-point grips better than 12 without stripping.

Remove both front wheels and put the front end on jackstands. It will help you with clearance.

Spray PB Blaster liberally on the nuts and let it soak overnight. Tap lightly with a hammer to induce vibration and let the penetrant soak in.

The nut on the bottom can be access with a 12" extension. I used my 6" extension and both of my 3" extensions.

If you have problems, use a breaker bar and gently work it.

The 12mm nut won't be a problem. Just use an extension and put a breaker bar on the ratchet.

The top 14mm nut may be a problem. You'll need to use a wrench since the bracket won't allow you to use a ratchet. It's not bad though.

A trick you can use is slide your 14mm wrench on, and then use a bigger wrench as a cheater bar and slip it over the open end of the wrench. Play with it and you'll know the orientation.

Big tip for you. If you're using Nismo mounts, the studs on them are slightly longer than stock, maybe 1/2" or so. I wasn't able to lift the motor high enough so I removed the bracket on the motor. The bracket is held on by 4 14mm bolts. I was then able to slip the mount in and bolt the bracket back on to the motor. You can see this in the pictures in the link.

I used the bellhousing to lift the motor. The link uses pieces of wood on the a/c and alternator brackets. Others use different points, but I prefer the bellhousing.

Just take your time. It's best to do the exhaust side the turbo is out. You can't even see it with the motor in. On the intake side, it helps if you remove the oil filter and the intake manifold support bracket(s).

http://importnut.net/nismomm.htm

[TipStylez]

^Good info, will be using this in a bit.

Thanks
-Q

[PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3]

Ya, problem is they are stuck on like a mofo, like boosteds13... I rounded the nut off and am using a metwrench to try and get it loose, it grabs hold, but wont budge, wasnt sure if the nuts were special or not. thanks tho

[g6civcx]

6 point heads on your socket/wrench and a breaker bar in conjunction with PB Blaster.

[PhR0Z3N_PhL4M3]

ya, would work, but there is no room for a cheater pipe, and i've been spraying the snit outa it with liquid wrench... still no go

[g6civcx]

Try the big wrench on the little wrench trick I said above. Works when a big pipe doesn't fit.

[g6civcx]

Use the big wrench on little wrench trick.