Engine rebuild help

[motegineon]

Calling all pros!
Ok so the ka24de knocked bad and here is what i got..

Notice the small hole (this is cylinder #4)

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b124/motegineon/IMG_0752.jpg

Also what are these goldish colored things?? Sorry for my ignorance but i have no idea what they are...

Notice the small chips on both of them..

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b124/motegineon/IMG_0755-1.jpg

Ok so as of now im getting a new block from a friend, what would be the best thing to do (this motor will not be boosted or anything like that so i dont know a bulletproof mootor, i just need oem goodrunning..

I was thinking getting new piston rings, main bearings, and rod bearings...Anything else i should do, do the walls need to be honed out? If so what is an approximate cost for this?

Or would i just be better off buying a running ka ?

Sorry for all the questions but i just wana make sure im doing the right thing:D

[spegt]

Those gold things are oil squirters. They shoot oil on the back of the piston to keep it cool. That is a nasty hole,...wonder how that happened. You can hone the block yourself, with a high speed drill and a ball hone. Or you have a shop do it. Its a around 80 bucks to do a .020" over bore so a hone should be around that or cheaper(for the entire block). If you get ahold of the FSM its not too bad to DIY, but you need the have the right tools and know some general knowledge, so after you have bought all the tools to DIY you could just pay for someone to do it...I spent over 1,000 bucks on the tools(mostly gauges and such) to do my build. PS....I built a s15 sr for 600+hp it currently runs 300+ at 10psi. I worked next to a guy who did a KA-T build. There are a lot of surprising simularities between the KA and SR(internally).

[motegineon]

thanks for your help, would it be necessary to bore it over? If so i wouldnt have to buy pistons would I? I could JUst do oversized rings right? Also if the motor was just rebuilt about 5000 miles ago is it still necessary to hone? Could i just use a micrometer or whatever its called and check it first and if its good then itd be ok? What would be a good riange for the micrometer to read throughout, or does it have to be perfectly equal throughout?

thanks again

[240sxScores]

I would just get the oversized pistons if you honed it. Wouldnt trust oversized rings on a piston too small for them, wouldnt stuff leak around the gaps?

[LA_phantom_240]

i would think so...

[CaoBoY]

honing should be under 50 bucks. it was 8 dollars a cylinder from an engine rebuild shop for me, but this was a standard bore/hone. i bought new pistons (standard size) and they honed it and made sure it fit the pistons still. spend the money, and take everything down to the shop and get the crankshaft/rods balanced/check the block for cracks, deck/mill the head and block, hot tank everything etc etc. its worth it. expect to spend atleast a good 1k if you do a solid rebuild.

[spegt]

If it has a nice crosshatching pattern still(the mesh like x's? I guess that explains it) and there are no imperfections, then there is no need to hone...unless you check it with a BORE GAUGE and they are out of spec. If everything is within its tolerences then oversized rings will work just fine, but remember you might have to form file the rings to spec out....yea this is a lot of info and stuff, but it is what is involved. I would suggest finding a FSM and reading the cylinder block assemb. over and over. I would....

Look at all the needed specs and write them down or print them out.
Measure the cylinders with a bore gauge(the top of the cylinders is always slightly bigger, the "rim" because the piston rings dont travel that far)

Then compair the measurements to the spec. Weither or not the cylinders are close to eachother, and then make sure you can get rings to fit your spec(usually can but there is a limit to oversized rings, I would say if you cant find the oversized rings you need dont get them made they are probably too big for the application) Then, place the ring in the cylinder. push it down with the top of the piston to keep the ring square for a good measurement.

( I am giving my money making knowlege away here...oh well)

Use a feeler gauge to measure the ring gap. If not in spec(ring too big, meaning the gap is too small) use a file in a clamp and pull the ring toward you(same direction everytime) file and measure until the ring is in spec.

If you are getting new pistons(use should measure the old ones(if reusing them) the make sure they are in spec too, before you order the rings...should have put that a bit earlier but anyway) Measure your pistons with a micrometer and spec them out.

If you end up going .020 over or whatever the machine shop will do this all(they should anyway) Sometime they machine the block to accept a certain piston. They will/should label each piston 1, 2, 3, 4.....and you would assemble each piston for that cylinder, but the shop I go to is good enough that this is usually never the case, and I can put any piston, into any cylinder...but anyway...

That is half of it, hope it helps...anything else I try to help, next to doing it for you, but then I would have to bill you, I could really use the money...haha