View Full Version : SR cam help
Stamina
07-28-2006, 09:05 AM
Hi,
I'm getting ready to do the cams, retainers and rocker arm stoppers in the next couple months. My question is do you have to remove the top end on the SR for the install? If so, i guess i'm in need of a new head gasket...or am i just pulling the valve cover? I will be getting a shop to do my internals but want to get all parts nessecary. Second is does the ECU have to be programed to accomodate the cams?
Lastely whats you take on cam brands? I am doing an aggressive step 2 cam, either HKS or Tomie (Leaning towards Tomie). Both ~270 with 11.5mm lift. My utimate goal is a 1/4 mile toy and i already know it wont be too friendly for a daily driver. Whats your input.....yays or nays of valve train upgrades.
Thanks
fliprayzin240sx
07-29-2006, 05:47 AM
K for the cams, you lift the valve cover and you should see the cam brackets holding the cams down. Look up in the FSM for the proper sequence to pop them off. Also refer to it again when you put it back because the sequence isnt the reverse sequence of how you took it off. And also, make sure the fronts sitting properly when you start torquing it down. Ive personally seen somebody snap a HKS cams in half cuz it wasnt seating properly when they torqued it down. If I remember right, theres 5 brackets holding each cam down. you have to loosen the timing chain tensioner and pop off the CAS too.
As far as ECU tuning. It all depends on what cams. HKS step 1s are complete drop ins (they are 10.5mm lift) . You wont need an ECU tune or adjustable cam gears to make em work. Stock head will work with this. If you go step 2s or the tomei ones (11.5 or higher lift) will definitely need a head job. After market valves, stiffer valve springs (comp tech=enthalpy approved) and titanium retainers. Plus adj cam gears, dyno time to get em set and tuning.
Stamina
07-29-2006, 07:04 AM
Finaly a responce....
Thanks for your help. Where I live there isnt too many people to lean on for SR knowledge, so i appreciate it. So this motor is a work in progress and i have just stated the internals. If i do need valves, head work and lifters, for the goal i want, it will get done. BUT, its not in my budget for this years mods (Well spring 07). When i talked to the guys at heavy throttle he suggested for the step 2 HKS, to do the cams, titanium retainers, springs, and the rocker arm stoppers, and i'll be safe. The only difference is I want to Tomie cams/rocker arm stopers instead, he did not mention valves and head work. I also asked about the adjst. cam gears as I will do them but not now, he said its fine, but he suggest to do it now ONLY as it will be double the labour to install the gears. I'm not one to do shady work on my car but due to budgets and possibly getting married.....could the head work, valves and gears wait till 08...even with not driving it hard?
Thanks again for your input. :hs:
Stamina
07-29-2006, 07:08 AM
EDIT: MEH....I will include the adjustable cam gears in my budget.
Tomie cams x2 270 degree with 12.5mm lift
Tomie rocker arm stoppers
Crower Titainium retainers
HKS valve springs
HKS cam gears
How is that for a start to the top end? With a dyno tune aswell?
VitaminT
07-29-2006, 12:23 PM
Don't buy HKS valve springs. Get comps or tomei...for further info I believe there is a valve spring comparison thread on freshalloy. HKS was just about the same as stock....like real close. Also I don't know that anyone has tried them yet but Enjuku now sells Brian Crower valvesprings and Ti retainers for like $225.
spegt
07-29-2006, 03:29 PM
You do know that 270's make less power right? Its been done over and over, on s13 redtop. Go with 264 or something close. 270's have too much lap and suck at idle(not to mention they make LESS POWER!!!) You would need to invest in so much more just to get those things dialed in then it would...blah..blah you get it. Go for tried and true methods and you will be happy. If you want a definative guide(one that I refer to often) find the (I think) september 2004 super street. I know it has a 350z sr powered monster on the cover. It has a table to what mods you need for the projected power ranged and which motor(s13,s14,s15,sr NA, ka NA, and ka-t) plus a cam install on a redtop.......it pretty sweet
Stamina
07-30-2006, 02:13 AM
You would need to invest in so much more just to get those things dialed in then it would...blah..blah you get it.
No i dont get it....help me bro. Whats the best cam to do to get good HP and good proformance in a 1/4 mile car. My future upgrades is a new (bigger) turbo, intake/exhaust mani's and some good bottom end work. After that its just tweaking. Dont want to do 264s then have to do 270s after i do all this.
But again, help a brotha out, I can use the advice. I'm new the the actual "tuning" instead of just bolt on's.
Thanks
spegt
07-30-2006, 09:16 AM
Sorry dude, I though you would get around about way of what i was saying. 272's will need a lot more tuning....and for the simple fact that they make less power, is the only reason I wouldnt do it. Find a Super Street with a 350 Z with an sr20det in it and look at the dyno yourself, they make less power. Hope that helped a little
Stamina
07-30-2006, 09:55 AM
Ok cool, i'll do some reading on the internet and see what i can find for some info on the 350z sr. I saw on the super street website they had a 180 with Toda 264's. So if i'm doing a 264 cam should i still stick with my original plan of parts....just swap out the 270 for 264?
Tomie cams x2 264Tomie rocker arm stoppers
Crower Titainium retainers
HKS valve springs
HKS cam gears
Hate to be a pest but you guys already saved me a headache i would have been in.
Thanks again.
fliprayzin240sx
07-31-2006, 12:18 AM
I second the whole dont get HKS springs. They are just like stock...just a tad bit stiffer. Comptech is better, enthalpy approved and itll keep up with those bigger cams. Also, i wouldnt skimp on the valves. Go save money and get the valves. SRs are know for pulling whodini magic tricks with the valves *they have a tendency to disappear* I would suggest instead of getting cams, just spend whatever money you got on the head and do it right. Then when you have the money save up, do the next set with the cams, gears and real tuning. As far as cam gears, just get the Greddy Cam gears, theyre cheaper and they do the same exact thing. Dont do the head half ass...
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