short shifters

[SilviaDriver]

i was planning to get a short shifter and i read on 240sx.org that some ppl have OBX and that their shifters broke..so i dunno about the OBX..and i was wondering..which company makes the short shifter that reduces the throws the most

thanx

[DSC]

c's/pilot/obx are all the same basic shifter. Their claim is 33% shorter distance between one gear and another...i'd say thats pretty close (this is the one I have). It does break but its suposed to be easily fixed.
LINK (http://www.zilvia.net/installs/obxss/doc.asp)

Nismo makes a solid shifter. Makes shifts less slopy or something. WeST had this one so maybe he'll comment. It does not reduce throw any.

B&M makes a short shifter that not only replaces the "stick" part but the base (or cover actually) also near the end of the tranny. They claim something in the 40% range on how much the throw is reduced. These tend to make a bit of noise (vibrations) over about 4000rpm.
LINK (http://groups.msn.com/grantswebpage/bmshortshifterinstall.msnw)


From everyting I've read and seen and my own use of an OBX short shifter...the B&M is absolutely the one I would recommend.

[MorganS13]

OBX just recently redesigned their shifters to fix the "breaking" problem... &nbsp;i have one of the second generation models and its just about the 33% that they claim. &nbsp;i've had nothing go wrong with it at all so far (2 months maybe..). &nbsp;its tied with my strut bar for the best $50 i've spent on my car (i got it used <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> )

[Yosho]

Are there any real difference between the C's and the Pilot/OBX?

What about the differences between the C's and the B&M? &nbsp;They're pretty close in price... why would you pick the B&M over the C's?

[DSC]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Yosho @ June 20 2002,07:17)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Are there any real difference between the C's and the Pilot/OBX?

What about the differences between the C's and the B&M? They're pretty close in price... why would you pick the B&M over the C's?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Theres no real difference between the three.

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">why would you pick the B&M over the C's?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
because its a totally different and superior design <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>

[thewholefnshow]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (MorganS13 @ June 20 2002,02:04)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">OBX just recently redesigned their shifters to fix the "breaking" problem... i have one of the second generation models and its just about the 33% that they claim. i've had nothing go wrong with it at all so far (2 months maybe..). its tied with my strut bar for the best $50 i've spent on my car (i got it used <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> )</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
They still break... everyone I have heard with the new one still says they have the same problem... the changed some of the gaskets and chromed the whole thing... but the thing still breaks cause it is still a 2 piece.

[Yosho]

I've heard about the whole breaking problem with the OBX's... but not with the C's. &nbsp;I've used a C's on an SE-R before, and was really impressed.

I've never used a B&M.

For me, the choice is really down to either the C's or the B&M. &nbsp;What do you think is superior about the design of the B&M over the C's? &nbsp;What have you read that would make you choose the B&M over the C's and choose it for your own car if you had to do it all over again?

Thx

[thewholefnshow]

It's like dsc said, it comes with the base and everything, not just the stick like all the other ones. It is purpose built and has all the hardware rather than just 1 piece you stick in.

[MorganS13]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (thewholefnshow @ June 20 2002,08:56)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">They still break... everyone I have heard with the new one still says they have the same problem... the changed some of the gaskets and chromed the whole thing... but the thing still breaks cause it is still a 2 piece.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
really?? hmm thats the first i've heard of that, guess i'll find out sooner or later &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>

[Yosho]

Yeah, I know it has the base and all... but how is that a superior design? &nbsp;Just because it's different doesn't mean it's better. &nbsp;I probably won't go wrong with either company, but I'd like to read the opinion of someone who's used both and why they liked one or the other better. &nbsp;Better feel? &nbsp;More precise? &nbsp;More forgiving? &nbsp;Quicker? &nbsp;Better weight? &nbsp;Those are the things I'm thinking about...

Anyone?

Thx,

[nrcooled]

I am personally going w/ the B&M. &nbsp;I don't like paying the extra $150 but it comes so highly recomended from a friend and from enjuku. &nbsp;I spoke to Kevin @ enjuku and he said he had both the OBX and the B&M on his SR and would take the B&M anyday. &nbsp;Solid throws and sure shift points were just a couple of the reasons that he gave me. &nbsp;So I plan on saving a couple of bucks after I get my boost controller and getting the B&M

[transient]

The B&M is the most solid shifter you're going to get. A lot of that is due to the new shifter plate since it's 1 piece Billet Aluminum. So yes, it does make a difference.