SR? finally! now what mods?

[urmomthnksimcute]

Finally getting my SR swapped tomorrow.. s14 SR into my zenki.. now the question is what mods do you think I should install right now to save me some time and money on labor.. my wallet isnt too big.. but good enough for a few mods.. any "must have" suggestions?

[DJPimpFlex]

CLEAN THE SHIT OUT OF THE ENGINE BAY!!!!!! I regret not cleaning mine more, and its a lot easier with no motor. You dont really need any mods, but a oil cooler and some gauges would be nice, maybe a radiator and some thin fans, cause it makes working on the car a lot easier.

[Dousan_PG]

mods? do the basics
turbo elbow
downpipe exhaust
upgraded radiator (keep the clutch fan)
clean the shti ouf the engine bay..and i mean EVERYTHING cleanit real good

and um...i guess thats pretty good for now..

[silverarrow27]

Clutch + Nismo Mounts

[Fat Felix]

nismo motor/trans mounts
turbo elbow and d/p
clutch
greddy oil pan(I would do it if I could do it over)
new heater hoses
upgrade radiator(at least the silvia one)

everything I listed is a hell of a lot easier to change with the motor out(except radiator, d/p, and trans mount)

[ManoNegra]

Oil pan shouldn't be too hard even with the motor in...

To add to what was already suggested:
I would take the time to do the steering column solid bushing
and relocate the harnesses in the wheel wells.

[Yuri]

Nismo mounts and clutch.
The mounts will make a huge difference, I've got two S13's one with nismo mounts, one with worn out stock mounts, and the stock one shakes while idling...

[stp9154]

Rocker Arm Stoppers + what've been said above.

[WILDACEX187]

if u're doing clutch maybe do rear main seal. mine was leaky so i did. :bow:

[DoriftoSlut]

Full Race mani, top mount t3/t04e, 740cc injectors, Enthalpy ECU, RAS, valve springs, 8,000 rpm redline, HKS 256/264 Step 2 cams, port, polish, 86.5 CP 9.0:1 pistons and ARP studs. Keep stock rods. New OEM bearings, Apexi 1.1mm MHG, Profec B EBC, 3" DP and exhaust, and a larger throttle body.


Good to go. Just a few basic mods I would personally do.
















Point being... how much would you really spend, and how long till you kill again...i mean spend again? Cause I would really suggest people rebuild their motors BEFORE running the piss out of it at 1.3 bar and grenading that shit a few months down the road.

[Dousan_PG]

^^ haha been there done that
btw DONT buy a SAFC
hahahahah

[ManoNegra]

I thought the point was basic stuff to do while the motor is out... but yeah, make sure the motor is healthy before abusing it, it's common sense.

[DoriftoSlut]

I thought the point was basic stuff to do while the motor is out... but yeah, make sure the motor is healthy before abusing it, it's common sense.
A "healthy" 15 year old motor is still 15 years old. What Race motor do you know of that is even 1 month old?

All I'm saying is if you have cash, and want to save yourself the trouble a couple months/year from now, throw some CP pistons, new rings (included with the pistons), wrist pins, bearings, machined head and block, hot tanked (to remove and clean the 15 years of corossion that will only get worse), a head gasket, and head studs on the motor while its out and before it even goes back in.

[faded1004]

i am gettting my swap also... this is what i am goign to do... keep in mind, my long term goals are:

250hp-275hp to the wheels
maximize response
daily driven
stock looking engine bay(basically no shiney stuff, no red stuff, no fmic)
a/c and power steering

also, even though this isn't my true daily driver, damn, i miss it and i want it back fast! that is why i am not going to change gaskets and stuff... they did a test and it was okay... so goign to leave it...

installing mods right now:
stock swap(shroud +clutch fan +heat sheilds)
clean engine
nismo mounts
smic
stock intake box or hks smf
full exhaust (80mm down +95mm exhaust) <----Hahhaha my worst give away!
ngk iridium plugs
exedy stage one race clutch+act prolite flywheel
fan controller
ignition amplifier
turbo timer
strip paint on valve cover
oil cooler and oil relocation

later:
aluminum driveshaft
aluminum radiator
s15 smic
s15 turbo
1.1mm to 1.2mm metal headgasket
full valve train
water injection
water intercooler spray bar
fuel delivery and managment
greddy oil pan

[ronmcdon]

Many of the reccomendations here are great. there's a lot of emphasis on reliability. however, i think you need to ask yourself what are your goals, and what is your budget? theoretically, it may desirable to spend tens of thousands of dollars on a full rebuild, and upgrade anything and everything possible, but whether or not thats within your budget, is another matter.

When I got my SR swap (also a s14 notchtop swap, into a s14 zenki), i wanted to eventually have a car that would do lapping, and maybe make around 300-350whp. I wanted to throw in parts to insure reliability, without resort to an expensive rebuild.

here's the mods i did the same time i did the swap:
-new front & rear main seal gaskets
-new spark plug gaskets
-walbro 255lph hp fuel pump
-z32 fuel filter
-new sard fuel pressure regulator & fp guage
-new oem water pump
-greddy oil pan w/ magnetic drain plug
-iridium spark plugs
-new PE drive belts
-new Nismo motor & tranny mts
-new oem thermostat
-used altima electric fans
-new summit racing fan controller
-new koyo alum radiator

-apexi intake filter (swap didn't have intake box)
-new greddy turbo elbow
-new catco hiflow cat
-new megan dp
-used blitz 3" catback
-new greddy fmic
-new greddy hotpipe
-new greddy bov

-aem wideband guage
-autometer oil pressure & boost guages
-new Westco battery and summit racing rear battery relocation (both junk, do not get these!)

-used act 6-puck w/ toda lightweight flywheel
-new nismo clutch line
-new oem clutch pivot fork
-new oem clutch slave cyclinder
-dss aluminum driveshaft (swap had bad driveshaft)

Parts I ended up getting shortly after, were a greddy turbo timer (pos part which broke in less than a month), and a greddy profec electronic boost controller that helped considerably with the responsiveness of the motor/turbo. The subframe bushings and tension rods also happened to be shot. They were replaced w/ respective spl parts. If I had the $$$, i'd also throw in a oil cooler, and a better diff. Aside from my tranny grinding in 4th, my swap has been very reliable for the last 6 months.

Just try to keep it simple with regard to the more aggressive mods, when you first put in the SR. Should you run into complications, it will be a lot easier to narrow down the problems. you also want to be sure your motor runs well, and you actually like it, before you throw down more money.

personally, i think if you already have a 240 with an sr swap, it's really the brakes, diff, and suspension that require more immediate attention. Right now, I'm saving up for brake and suspension parts. that's almost as complex as the swap itself. :P

If you get electronics, I'd suggest not getting greddy parts. I've had not such good exp with them.

[kensreliableb18b]

do basic bolt-ons for now and see if the motor runs strong first, then you can play around with your mods all you want.

mods that are worth doing while the motor is out are nismo mounts cuz you'll hate urself if you dont change to these and maybe steering bushing. yes, short and simple.

[Dousan_PG]

ron, those mods wont give u 300whp
upgrade ur trubo and do some motor work. cams, headgasket etf if u want closer to the 350range.

[CKAMC]

focus on the basics and work on having your car run healthy/strong, get used to the power as well... some think two or three events is good enough but I myself think you dont know shit untill 7 events unless your talented. From there I would do drivetrain and suspension and ANY bushings that have worn out.

from there engine management before you do your power mods so your motor runs correctly with each and every mod. keep them suddle because you will notice a difference. I have seen quite a few people still rock stock motor and not exceed 300whp for quite some time.

electric fans arent best....depends on climate and location.

Good Luck!

[kawika219]

this is what i understand of this...if you're on a tight budget, do some bolt ons and alot of oem replacements just to get the motor reliable...correct???...i need to replan what im doing...crap

[ronmcdon]

ron, those mods wont give u 300whp
upgrade ur trubo and do some motor work. cams, headgasket etf if u want closer to the 350range.

lol, no i don't think it would be safe to go past 10-12 lbs with my currect setup, without at least upgrading the injectors and maf. even if i were to run the stock turbo at 15 lbs, i doubt i would i would be making close to that amount.

you're right though. I would def have to upgrade the turbo, headwork and headgaskets at the very least to make 300-350whp reliably and with a decent powerband.

sorry for the confusion. what i meant was that some of the parts i put in, like the the greddy rsvp fmic, act 6 puck, exhaust, etc would be parts that would eventually be needed anyways to get to that power level, and would be good parts to have to begin with.

300-350whp is more like a speculation, rather than a solid goal right now. I'm going to take the car for some hpde lapping and autoX events first, learn to have a feel for the car, and then decide if i need more power or any other parts. in my past exp, its usually easier to learn and drive a car well when it has less power. I'll turn the boost down to 7 lbs the first time, and then go on from there as i'm more confident with the car.

[Edgar]

head gasket????

[urmomthnksimcute]

thanks for all the response guys. I ended up getting

nismo motor mounts
DP and turbo elbow
clutch
vlsd

Might add some more this week.

[enginesurplus]

nice nice mods...you will like vlsd and the mounts

[Fat Felix]

I'd consider it kinda risky using the stock fuel pump even if you stay at stock boost.

[urmomthnksimcute]

Ya, The next add ons would probably be the fuel pump and radiator.