Project Mu or hawk brake pads?

[komedy]

im either going for the Project Mu B- force or the hawk hp plus
i know there both good. any ones used them before? just want your input on how you like them. or if you recommed other one just for street use.
thanks
anyone know how much resurfacing stock s13 rotors cost avergage in california so i dont get ripped off?

thanks.

[S14 Wannabe]

I've had my PMu brake pads for over 6 months now and I'm very happy with initial stopping power. They are a little squeky in the morning but other than that I am happy.

[chuy]

+1 for Hawks HPS+

[ManoNegra]

Hawk Pads here. Happy so far, no noise.
Resurfacing a rotor is ~$10-15 depending of where you go. New, they're ~$20.

[Silverbullet]

go with Hawk if you wanna save money. If not, you can spend almost twice as much with Project Mu's to be JDM tyte!

i also recomend getting new rotors rather than resurfacing.

[sncs14]

I've been using the B-Force front and rear for almost three years and 60k miles, it's almost time to replace them. They squeel every now and then but I don't mind. Great pads, but I think I'm going to try something diferent when I change them.

Resurfacing is cheap. I wouldn't recomend it though if you are going to be using an agressive set of pads.

[EndLeSS8]

Hawk pads or Axxis Ultimates?
That's my decision soon...

[Jefferson]

Hawk HPS pad hasnt let me down yet, they feel great on the track. Mine sqeek a bit but I think cause its time for some new rotor. As for projuct mu I have no experience with them

[komedy]

how long do breaks usually last from normal day to day traffic driving.
dont want a axact number but an estimate.

I ask because my breaks are making that grinding noise(break pad wearing down) when i step on brakes and its only been 1 year since i changed them with factory nissan pads and resurfaced rotors. ima check on them to make sure.

is it possible that all three pads still be good and one can be worn down more then the others from bad brake pressure or bad break installation by the shop?

[komedy]

how long do breaks usually last from normal day to day traffic driving.
dont want a axact number but an estimate.

I ask because my breaks are making that grinding noise(break pad wearing down) when i step on brakes and its only been 1 year since i changed them with factory nissan pads and resurfaced rotors. ima check on them to make sure.

is it possible that all three pads still be good and one can be worn down more then the others from bad brake pressure or bad break installation by the shop?

[codyace]

Don't bother with either:

Get Carbotech pads...in particular bobcats if you're looking at a sub 275 whp D/D. If more power, get the Panther Pluses!

These pads stop great when cold, and even better when hot. I've had them on my Altima (which spent time N/A, Turbo, and now stock) and the pads still have near 3/4 left on them with a good 10,000 ish miles on them!

I know it's apples to oranges, but with JUST bobcats on the front, with OEM rear shoes (drum in the rear) I could outstop my buddies RSX S (Full Drilled/slotted and Metal Masters on 4 corners) from 100-20 all day.

[gotta240]

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe more aggressive pads actually shorten the stopping distance in emergencies.... I believe they just give a better feedback, and still bite well during times of ultra high temps(ie track use)....

[FRpilot]

i say get hawk hps. project mu is great and all but expensive just because its jdm. if money is not object to you, get project mu. hawk hps are great. i have them all around on my z32 brakes. stay away from hawk hp + or anything higher they offer unless you have a track car. on a street car it takes longer to heat up the brake pads and the heat range for the pad is for continous stopping on the track. also, i heard that it will wear down your rotors faster significantly since its a more aggressive track pad. just stick with hawk hps good for street driving and occasional track.

[codyace]

Correct me if i'm wrong, but i dont believe more aggressive pads actually shorten the stopping distance in emergencies.... I believe they just give a better feedback, and still bite well during times of ultra high temps(ie track use)....


I guess it depends by what you deam as aggressive. I can vouch that the Bobcats saved me MANY times at 1/2 am when deer have jumped out infront of me...


The biggest thing you need to learn when using upgraded pads is how to brake. People are used to just 'slamming the pedal'...which undoubtedly is going to cause lockup. Secondly, decent tires are going to help with braking as well. If you've got some rock solid cheap tires, they aren't going to brake at all. Stick some Azenis or KDW's or something on there, and you'll be amazed on how your stopping distance can shorten!

[Silverbullet]

The biggest thing you need to learn when using upgraded pads is how to brake. People are used to just 'slamming the pedal'...which undoubtedly is going to cause lockup. Secondly, decent tires are going to help with braking as well. If you've got some rock solid cheap tires, they aren't going to brake at all. Stick some Azenis or KDW's or something on there, and you'll be amazed on how your stopping distance can shorten!

word... some ppl dont realize its the tires that actually stop your car, not the brakes. if your tires rn't sticky, they r gonna lock up and u wont stop.

[S14DB]

I hate my Hawk pads. They dust like crazy and have only lasted a year.

I have some Project Mu pads on the shelf ready to go in once I get the engine broke in. They look really nice with all the copper chunks in them.

[kingsol]

i have the project mu ns pads for daily and endless for the track. Both do their job wonderfully. The ns pads do not dust (well, maybe a bit, but after months of driving), and do not squeal; therefore, being the best street pad in my book.
The endless pads, compared to the b-forces I tried out, had noticebly better inital bite, but they were not too nice on my rotors. I haven't tried hawk yet, so that'll be next.

['90RPS13]

Not sure about pads. But dont bother with resurfacing. Just go to Napa. Last time I bought some I think they were $15-18. Napa I believe is the cheapest. Just my .02 though. *a

[ManoNegra]

Forgot to mentione: my Hawk pads are a bit dusty and work best after a little while when warmed. I like them but may try Project Mu or Endless next just to compare.

[phreze]

I just ordered a set of project mu front and rear B-Force pads. From what I heard they are very good, most people say endless are a little better but the b-force is best street/track pad for the money.

[S14DB]

My wheels were nice before I got my Hawks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Brakes/HPba.jpg
Before/After

I got some Mu NS that are going on. I'll get some better pics without the plastic on. But you can see the Copper and Carbon in the mix.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Brakes/MuNS2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Brakes/MuNS1.jpg

Going on some Racing Brake rotors I got on clearance cause they suck at advertising and no one buys them. Got them for less than a stock pair at AutoZone.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/S14DB/240sx/Brakes/RBEDP.jpg

[codyace]

I just ordered a set of project mu front and rear B-Force pads. From what I heard they are very good, most people say endless are a little better but the b-force is best street/track pad for the money.


I'll disagree again...for the same price as those japanese pads, you could have gotten a set of Carbotech Bobcats or Panther Plus's, and outstopped the Mu's.



Going on some Racing Brake rotors I got on clearance cause they suck at advertising and no one buys them. Got them for less than a stock pair at AutoZone.


Your good deal IMO is more of a nuisance in my experience and have seen. Drilled/Slotted rotors tend to stop worse on the street (as they don't retain the needed heat for upgraded pads) and really chew the hell out of pads at the same time. On the overwhelming majority of track cars you see at PDA/Nasa/Scca/etc events, you'll see full OEM replacement rotors on the cars, simply because they work better for lmost streetable/track cars both on and off the track