View Full Version : SR- where does this wire run to?
05civse
06-04-2006, 04:20 AM
Okay, so I just got my s13 blacktop installed and it runs great. It started first crank, nothing brings a smile to your face faster than that. anyway, I just have one thing. What is this and where does it go? there is a pic of it and the plug that it routes to (the one that is unplugged). If anyone has an sr and know where it goes that would help me a ton. also, the three hoses that go from the intake manifold/ T.B. to the charcol canister and the BOV, which is which? I guesed that the bigger one goes to the canister (duh) and the one that goes from behind the T.B. also goes to the canister leaving the one that is on the T.B. to go to the BOV. I assume that I am correct because I hear the BOV releasing after hard throttle chop but am i really? Thanks guys
BTW this is intake side next to #4 injector plug (incase you didn't know that)
Gramentz
06-04-2006, 05:22 AM
Looks to be the knock sensor, which bolts underneath the intake manifold, against the block.
There are two vacuum inserts/nipples on the top of the throttle body. The larger of the two on top goes to the bov directly. The smaller one on top will T into the fuel pressure regulator, and then branches to boost gauge (if you have one). The vacuum insert/nipple on the bottom of the throttle body goes to your charcoal canister. (I'm not running canister on mine, so I have my bottom one going to wastegate)
SoSideways
06-04-2006, 09:46 AM
That does look like the knock sensor.
So... good luck trying to install that with the intake manifold already on and all your wiring harness in the way and such.
05civse
06-04-2006, 11:19 AM
If it just bolts to the intake manifold (one of the two threaded holes on the back) I have plenty of room
Gramentz- the large hose on the top is too big to fit on the BOV line, but fits on the large nipple on the charcoal canister. I have one of the two smaller hoses running from the top of the T.B. into the T to the F.P.R and then out to the boost control solenoid thing that is green with a black knob (it runs from there to the intake pre-turbo I believe). I have the last small one on the bottom of the T.B. running directly to the BOV. Since only two of the three hoses are the correct size for the BOV hose and it only makes sense that the BOV hose would not go from the F.P.R, but I could be completely wrong.
cotbu
06-04-2006, 11:40 AM
Whomever removed the KA, unbolted the sensor. You should have a knock sensor or your SR.(unplug the KA sensor) plug in SR. If you like that is.
05civse
06-04-2006, 12:53 PM
^^^ What??? wouldn't you use the SR sensor? it is mounted to the engine so I don't see what removing the ka would have to do with it. please elaborate
Gramentz
06-04-2006, 05:05 PM
The vacuum insert on the top right of the TB (If you're facing it) goes to my bov directly. I used the vacuum hose that was supplied with my bov and it fits snug. The vacuum insert on the top left (if you're facing it) goes to the FPR and the bottom vacuum insert goes to my wastegate directly. I'm also not running the canister or the boost control solenoid. You could try and find a little wider vacuum hose to fit over the larger vacuum insert on the top. (I remember having to shove mine over the insert with pliers, but be careful not to puncture it).
The knock sensor is bolted somewhat near the oil filter. It may be tricky to do with the engine in the car. (I did mine when it was on an engine stand). You can see part of the oil filter (blue) in the bottom right of the picture. Here's a pic:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g100/bgramentz/Picture011.jpg
Hope that helped you out.
05civse
06-05-2006, 01:28 AM
Awesome gramentz, That is exactly what I need. Thanks for taking the time to take that pic and help me out! I have one last question, what happens when you run the engine with the knock sensor unplugged? I did this and the engine felt about as quick as the ka (keep in mind this was my first time driving the SR). It ran smooth but when you got on the gas if kind of fell on its face and didn't accelerate too quickly. I drove it back to my shop and set the timing to the fourth mark over (I assumed they went by 2 degrees and the second mark is TDC so 4 minus 1 =3 and 3 x 2 degrees per mark = 6 degrees), connected the knock sensor to the back of the intake manifold (this was before your pic) and reconnected the plug. After that I went back out down my street with my G/F holding my pieced together boost gauge so I could see if I was getting boost. Because I was rushing myself I just stole the first nipple I could see which turned out to be the wastegate hose (LOL I bet you know what happened on the street!). So I pulled out and proceeded to slowly raise the RPMs but it still felt like before. I then gave it full throttle and after a second I saw the needle quickly rise up and all of a sudden the thing took off! I went to the end of the street and turned around excitedly and did it again only this time at about halfway through second gear I heard a phhhhhhhhh and the engine died. I knew that it wasn't mechanical because it sounded like air so I checked my pipes only to find that my cold pipe off of the intercooler had blown off, haha. Anyway, what I am saying is, would the knock sensor make it run bad and feel like no boost if it was disconnected? If not why did it all of a sudden fix itself? Thanks guys.
fliprayzin240sx
06-05-2006, 01:55 AM
Not running a knock sensor is bad juju. Im surprised the ECu hasnt thrown a code yet and automatically run in safe mode. The ECU needs the knock sensor to tell if the engine is misfiring/knocking so it can correct itself on its own by either adjusting the fuel or the timing. IIRC, the knock sensor is held in place by a bolt, and is placed on the block somewhere below the head area, Right under neat the 3rd runner roughly. Go under neat the car and look up just on the upper left side of the oil filter area.
K as far as timing, did you double check the mechanical timing? Put the engine in TDC, lift the valve cover and check the cam sprockets and see if theyre where they supposed to be. Then do the ignition timing by inserting the cas with the cover off.
As far as your boost gauge vacuum line, are you telling us that you run the car full throttle with the vaccum line for the wastegate disconnected??? Rule #1, do not ever tap the wastegate vaccum line. Your liable to get boost spikes if you do.
cotbu
06-05-2006, 06:51 AM
Whenever your feedback is RED, nubes act as though you, speakii nooo inglish
Whomever removed the KA, unbolted the sensor.
Instead of unplugging the sensor.
This is an assumption.
You should have a knock sensor or your SR
This is where the FSM comes in to play.
(unplug the KA sensor) plug in SR.
And this means your choice, since you already ran the car.
If you like that is.
05civse
06-05-2006, 11:32 AM
Mechanical timing is dead on, should I set it by a timing light off of #1 or back to the second dot on the CAS? It felt like it idled better with it set by the timing light (more smooth and clean). Secondly, I know not to run any line off of the waste gate hose. I reconnected the line right after I got back to my house because I knew that with a boost spike like it did that the waste gate was not working or unplugged. I left the cold pipe loose so just incase it spiked it would just blow it off and not do any damage. Next, I bet the ECU did run in safe mode and that is why it ran sort of slow at first, I just wanted to know if this ECU did run a safe mode if the knock sensor was unplugged. Oh and cotbu, I understand the English behind the sentence, I just was not sure what you were telling me (the ka and sr sensors are the same, use the ka and not the sr, ect.). Thanks again guys!
ESone3
06-05-2006, 02:14 PM
Thank you for this thread. I thought that was a weird ground. My car has been running like crap lately and I couldn't figure out why. I have a new one coming and hopefully it will be running tip top again.
thanks
05civse
06-06-2006, 12:43 AM
As long as we are identifying components, what is the thing that the hose to the BOV T's of too in the factory setting? It is mounted on the same bracket as the igniter and is green with a black knob that you can turn. I hooked all of this stuff like it was in my front clip and am slowly realizing what it all is by logical thinking. Oh, and if it is just too hard to hook the knock sensor up, even on my lift, is it okay to just mount it to the back of the intake manifold? If it is just measuring vibrations, wouldn't it possibly be more accurate out there because in a way all of the engine's movements are amplified due to the fact that it is further away from the centerline of the engine? Thanks
carkid0007
06-06-2006, 01:06 AM
Thats the Boost Solenoid that your talking about, most people discard it.
05civse
06-06-2006, 01:24 PM
thats what I was thinking, what does it do/ controll? If it indeed does what i have heard and keeps the waste gate closed at lower rpms to decrease the lag, then why would some one not run it? what happens when you adjust the knob? also, what is the thing under it that compairs the air pressure before the turbo and after? thanks
fliprayzin240sx
06-07-2006, 12:10 AM
See alot of people whos running SR just discard most of the smog related stuff in the car. In all honesty, discard it all the stuff...itll help simply your vacuum line. My vacuum lines setup like this...2 vacuum nipple on one side of the throttle body. One line goes straight to my AVCR vacuum sensor, the other nipple runs my BOV and FPR. The extra nipple thats on its own on the other side, most people plug it. I used that to tap my boost gauge. Itll read boost and vacuum when your foots on the throttle, the moment the plate closes, the gauge goes to 0 sinces its before the TB. For the wastegate, i got a nipple tapped off my Hotpipe.
drifter808
06-07-2006, 12:53 AM
you should definently have your knock sensor bolted on. not to the intake manifold but to the block. thats probably why your car feels slow cause the ECU is in safe mode.
05civse
06-08-2006, 12:41 AM
Safe mod is what, waste gate open to 20% at all times? I know that after I connected it, it ran great. Now I have 7 p.s.i. and pull at a nice rate. Any one know what the black knob controls? How about how important is the thing under it that is comparing boosted and non-boosted air? I know you can run w/o it but why would you? It helps the E.C.U. more precisely control the boost pressure, I can't understand why this would be a bad thing.
drifter808
06-08-2006, 12:50 AM
just get rid of it, i cant think of anyone who actually kept that thing on there engine.
Gramentz
06-08-2006, 08:18 AM
I've got mine in a storage box, and a lot of my friends have done the same...
fliprayzin240sx
06-09-2006, 12:12 PM
That box doesnt matter, your wastegate will keep you at 7 psi unless you got a sticking wastegate.
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