sil80
06-17-2002, 09:50 AM
Well I plan on upgrading my brakes to the 90 300zx NA TT calipers and in process of researching I have put together a little question answer sheet that I think will help other that plan on doing this project. All the answers we provided from asad -- you know your awsome man --.
> Should I do just the front or go all out and do the
> rear also?
If you're strapped for cash, just do the front. If you wanted to
do the rear, a master cylinder upgrade would be a good idea as
well.
> Last question for ya, You say master cylinder upgrade? I assume
> you mean the
> one off the 300zx? Will bolt right in the 240sx?
The Z32 300ZX master won't bolt into an S13, unless you have ABS.
If you don't have ABS, you can use an 84-85 300ZX turbo master
cylinder -- it has the correct port configuration for use in a
non-ABS S13, and is 15/16" instead of the OE 240sx 7/8".
> I
> plan on getting the 26mm calipers. When I go to the
> salvage/junkyard what
> littles things should I make sure to get beside the calipers?
It's useful if the calipers have the two pad retaining pins, the
spring clip that holds the pins in, and the flat spring that clips
on top of the pins. There are some pics at www.twinturbo.net of
the all the required brake hardware.
> Now if I dont get dons brake lines and just get a set of 300zx ss
> lines do I have to be specific about the year when I buy them?
No, but if you use 300ZX SS lines you'll need to get the short
hardline section to connect to the caliper. The short hardline
sections should cost around $5-$7 each from the dealer.
> Do you have a part number on that?
No, but you can look it up yourself in the parts fiche at
www.twinturbo.net.
>Quote out of a post
> Is this something off a 300zx or 240sx normally? Your
> quote -->>
> "Or, you can use 300ZX lines, but you have to get an additional
> hard line to
> attach to the caliper, and then the 300ZX lines attach to the
> hard line."
The hard line is a stock 300ZX brake component.
> Now rotors... well can you just give me the best thing here? Like
> should I
> just get new 4 lug KVR rotors? Do I have to get them drilled or
> something?
> Im sure I read that you cannot use the same rotor for the 240 and
> 300
> calipers. Is that true?
Yes, it's true -- you CANNOT use the 240sx rotor. The 300ZX
caliper is designed for a 280mm x 26mm (or 30mm) rotor. The OEM
240sx rotor is 252mm x 20mm -- MUCH too small for the 300ZX
caliper.
"best" is a matter of opinion. You can get plain, non-drilled,
non-slotted Brembo 300ZX front rotors quite cheap ($60 each from
www.stranoparts.com ). You'll need to redrill them for 4-lug. Or
you can get KVR 300ZX rotors, or you can get the Heavythrottle
300ZX rotors, whatever. BTW, KVR, Heavythrottle, Stillen,
Powerstop, and a lot of other places use Brembo blanks and
drill/slot the rotors themselves.
> One or two more question and I will leave you alone.... First,
> when I get
> the rotors where would be the best place to get them drilled? Any
> brake
> place or an actual machine shop style place?
Hm...I'd just find a normal machine shop.
> Now when I ask them
> to re-drill
> them should I specify a spec or just say 4 lug... damn that
> sounds dumb...
If you have one handy, take an old 4-lug rotor for them to use as a
template. Otherwise, tell them you want it redrilled for 4 lugs on
a 4.5" bolt circle (the 300ZX uses 5 lugs on a 4.5" bolt circle, so
you can actually re-use one of the 5 holes, and just drill 3
additional holes in each rotor).
> Will this jeopardize the
> integrity of the rotors buy redrilling them?
I have never heard of an instance where a rotor failed due to
redrilling. There's still plenty of meat around the holes.
> I think I can figure out the whole dust shield thing so I wont go
> into that.
Just need to either cut it away, or remove it entirely. Not rocket
science.
-- Have or not to have ABS:
To determine if it had ABS, look for an ABS warning light in the gauge cluster. Or pop the hood and follow the lines from the master cylinder. If it has ABS, there will be an ABS valve box on the passenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.To determine if it had ABS, look for an ABS warning light in the gauge cluster. Or pop the hood and follow the lines from the master cylinder. If it has ABS, there will be an ABS valve box on the passenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.
> Should I do just the front or go all out and do the
> rear also?
If you're strapped for cash, just do the front. If you wanted to
do the rear, a master cylinder upgrade would be a good idea as
well.
> Last question for ya, You say master cylinder upgrade? I assume
> you mean the
> one off the 300zx? Will bolt right in the 240sx?
The Z32 300ZX master won't bolt into an S13, unless you have ABS.
If you don't have ABS, you can use an 84-85 300ZX turbo master
cylinder -- it has the correct port configuration for use in a
non-ABS S13, and is 15/16" instead of the OE 240sx 7/8".
> I
> plan on getting the 26mm calipers. When I go to the
> salvage/junkyard what
> littles things should I make sure to get beside the calipers?
It's useful if the calipers have the two pad retaining pins, the
spring clip that holds the pins in, and the flat spring that clips
on top of the pins. There are some pics at www.twinturbo.net of
the all the required brake hardware.
> Now if I dont get dons brake lines and just get a set of 300zx ss
> lines do I have to be specific about the year when I buy them?
No, but if you use 300ZX SS lines you'll need to get the short
hardline section to connect to the caliper. The short hardline
sections should cost around $5-$7 each from the dealer.
> Do you have a part number on that?
No, but you can look it up yourself in the parts fiche at
www.twinturbo.net.
>Quote out of a post
> Is this something off a 300zx or 240sx normally? Your
> quote -->>
> "Or, you can use 300ZX lines, but you have to get an additional
> hard line to
> attach to the caliper, and then the 300ZX lines attach to the
> hard line."
The hard line is a stock 300ZX brake component.
> Now rotors... well can you just give me the best thing here? Like
> should I
> just get new 4 lug KVR rotors? Do I have to get them drilled or
> something?
> Im sure I read that you cannot use the same rotor for the 240 and
> 300
> calipers. Is that true?
Yes, it's true -- you CANNOT use the 240sx rotor. The 300ZX
caliper is designed for a 280mm x 26mm (or 30mm) rotor. The OEM
240sx rotor is 252mm x 20mm -- MUCH too small for the 300ZX
caliper.
"best" is a matter of opinion. You can get plain, non-drilled,
non-slotted Brembo 300ZX front rotors quite cheap ($60 each from
www.stranoparts.com ). You'll need to redrill them for 4-lug. Or
you can get KVR 300ZX rotors, or you can get the Heavythrottle
300ZX rotors, whatever. BTW, KVR, Heavythrottle, Stillen,
Powerstop, and a lot of other places use Brembo blanks and
drill/slot the rotors themselves.
> One or two more question and I will leave you alone.... First,
> when I get
> the rotors where would be the best place to get them drilled? Any
> brake
> place or an actual machine shop style place?
Hm...I'd just find a normal machine shop.
> Now when I ask them
> to re-drill
> them should I specify a spec or just say 4 lug... damn that
> sounds dumb...
If you have one handy, take an old 4-lug rotor for them to use as a
template. Otherwise, tell them you want it redrilled for 4 lugs on
a 4.5" bolt circle (the 300ZX uses 5 lugs on a 4.5" bolt circle, so
you can actually re-use one of the 5 holes, and just drill 3
additional holes in each rotor).
> Will this jeopardize the
> integrity of the rotors buy redrilling them?
I have never heard of an instance where a rotor failed due to
redrilling. There's still plenty of meat around the holes.
> I think I can figure out the whole dust shield thing so I wont go
> into that.
Just need to either cut it away, or remove it entirely. Not rocket
science.
-- Have or not to have ABS:
To determine if it had ABS, look for an ABS warning light in the gauge cluster. Or pop the hood and follow the lines from the master cylinder. If it has ABS, there will be an ABS valve box on the passenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.To determine if it had ABS, look for an ABS warning light in the gauge cluster. Or pop the hood and follow the lines from the master cylinder. If it has ABS, there will be an ABS valve box on the passenger side of the engine bay near the firewall.