Daily driven all motor?

[Travis240]

Is there any way to get 200+ hp to the wheels with a n/a KA? What is required, and what will it cost? Is it street drivable? Could I hook up a 50 shot to this 200+ hp motor?
Any Input is appreciated,
Thanks,
Travis

[TonysS13]

its possible i think
headers,full kat &nbsp;back exahust,some fuel work,u might have a shot <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'>

[rotaryknight]

I think that it may take alot of work. Figure that the 240sx has 155 bhp which is roughly 120-125 RWHP, 200 RWHP is pretty good but i think you will need cams, cam gears, head work and really really good dyno tuning. Not sure if you would have to lower the compression...if you do you may not be able to run too much N20.

[DSC]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (rotaryknight @ June 08 2002,05:15)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I think that it may take alot of work. Figure that the 240sx has 155 bhp which is roughly 120-125 RWHP, 200 RWHP is pretty good but i think you will need cams, cam gears, head work and really really good dyno tuning. Not sure if you would have to lower the compression...if you do you may not be able to run too much N20.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
From what I've heard its closer to 135rwhp, but it, of course, varies from motor to motor...

Also, wouldn't you raise compression on an n/a engine instead of lower it? &nbsp;I don't see any reason to lower it but maybe I'm missing something?

If you raise compression it will definately make the use of nitrous a lot more riskey...

[rotaryknight]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (DSC @ June 09 2002,10:29)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (rotaryknight @ June 08 2002,05:15)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I think that it may take alot of work. Figure that the 240sx has 155 bhp which is roughly 120-125 RWHP, 200 RWHP is pretty good but i think you will need cams, cam gears, head work and really really good dyno tuning. Not sure if you would have to lower the compression...if you do you may not be able to run too much N20.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
From what I've heard its closer to 135rwhp, but it, of course, varies from motor to motor...

Also, wouldn't you raise compression on an n/a engine instead of lower it? I don't see any reason to lower it but maybe I'm missing something?

If you raise compression it will definately make the use of nitrous a lot more riskey...</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
DoH.....Yes you are right....I wasn't payin attention and thinking of a thinner head gasket...but yes you are right you need to raise compression on a N/A car.

[MarketPlayer]

Ok i don't know my ass from a hole in the ground, but isn't detonation caused from the the compressed air being too hot, before it should be? &nbsp;If so, then shouldn't using N2O be a good thing, seeing as how it is extremely cold? &nbsp;The way i see it, the only thing to worry about when using N2O is making sure your seals are good, and if you blow enough, then maybe balencing of the crank is necessary. &nbsp;I would say the rods should be upgraded but i think they are pretty damn strong in stock form! &nbsp;I think it is very possible to have 200+wrhp on a n/a ka!
-zac

[Travis240]

My current "plan" calls for boring out the motor to make the bore and stroke "square", I read somewhre you can use 300zx pistons to do this? Obviously, I also need stronger rods at that time. Any recommendations as to people/ companies that port heads? Where can I get stronger valve springs? As to cams I have been looking at the ones from PDM. Does anyone have any experience w/ them, or the new JWT ones?
Hoping to beat the Hondas at the hp/liter game
Travis

[MarketPlayer]

I wanted to bore out a ka once too, but i was then schooled on how much the ka can be bored...like 1 to maybe 2mm at most. &nbsp;This will not bring you to square, but what you can do is destroke the engine, with a new crank, thinner head gasket, longer rods, and upped compression pistons! &nbsp;Someone correct me if i am wrong!

-zac

[SaintlyCharBoy]

in looing at buying parts, reading Maximum boost (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/0837601606/qid=1023678822/sr=8-1/ref=sr_8_1/103-1082921-6991841), and talking to local motorheads, i have basically gained the understainding that altering head gasket thickness is not a viable option when compression changes are to be done, especially on a motor with a timing chain. &nbsp;if custom pistons are to be used simply take the desired compression in to account when ordering them

[Jeff240sx]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Travis240 @ June 09 2002,5:46)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">My current "plan" calls for boring out the motor to make the bore and stroke "square", I read somewhre you can use 300zx pistons to do this?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Well. &nbsp;No. &nbsp;300zx pistons will make a sr20de(t) have a square bore = stroke... but to make a KA square, you gotta bore just about 7 milimeters out of EACH cylinder. &nbsp;And you can't. &nbsp;Unless you wanted a water pool for your pistons to play in... but then they wouldn't do any work, so thats probably a bad idea.
And people... yes. &nbsp;You raise compression when using nitrous. &nbsp;Marketplayer is right. &nbsp;I might have to nominate him for the "Useful Newbie" award this month. &nbsp;He seems to know his stuff. &nbsp;
And finally, adding nitrous to a motor makes it a forced induction motor in every definition of the words. &nbsp;So a 200rwhp N/A ka cannot be attained with a 50shot of nitrous. &nbsp;Or we would have a 300rwhp "N/A ka" running 11.2s in the 1/4. &nbsp;But alas... its forced induction.
-Jeff

[DuffMan]

N20 isn't forced induction by definition but a lot of the same rules apply. 200 rwhp with a 50 shot is entirely possible. 250rwhp is possible with a 100 shot, but you can't do it with one of those cheap little wet kits.

[flipboi13]

How is NOS forced induction? &nbsp;You aren't compressing air?? &nbsp;And the NOS that enters the cylinder isn't putting that much extra pressure on the pistons until it explodes?

[rotaryknight]

The oxygen is taken from the N2O as N2O is an oxidizer. &nbsp;Duffman is correct it is NOT forced induction but the same rules apply especially when it come to watching your fuel.

The reason why many people pop on N20 is the same as forced induction...poor fuel mixture. &nbsp;You still need to upgrade your fuel just like you would a forced induction set up.

[sykikchimp]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (MarketPlayer @ June 09 2002,4:24)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Ok i don't know my ass from a hole in the ground, but isn't detonation caused from the the compressed air being too hot, before it should be? If so, then shouldn't using N2O be a good thing, seeing as how it is extremely cold? The way i see it, the only thing to worry about when using N2O is making sure your seals are good, and if you blow enough, then maybe balencing of the crank is necessary. I would say the rods should be upgraded but i think they are pretty damn strong in stock form! I think it is very possible to have 200+wrhp on a n/a ka!
-zac</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
N20 is very cold in liquid form, when burnt it burns VERY hot, just like oxygen. &nbsp;Running rich is safe b/c the extra gas helps keep the piston and cylinder colder and prevents detonation. &nbsp;Thats why you have to run EXTRA fuel with n20 &nbsp;it's basically a shot of liquid oxygen.

You Would NOT raise compression when using nitrous. &nbsp;It works under the same laws and principles as a turbo/supercharger.

[sykikchimp]

Also if you want 200hp plus on the KA N/A you will need pretty much every bolt-on, Big cams, Head work, higher compression pistons, Engine management, Fuel System (maybe.. &nbsp;you could probably get away with just an adjustable FPR) &nbsp;and Lots of Dyno Time. <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/smile.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':)'>