Engine mount removal from front clip.

[Miami240z]

I have my front clip here and im having extreme difficullty removing the motor mounts to take the SR out of the clip. Its just one bolt on each side but theyre positioned in a way that you cant get any extra leverage and the bolts are breaking my tools. Im trying to get the engine out tonight so I can bring it in the garage for prep work. If any body has any ideas please let me know because this shit is pissing me off.

[mrmephistopheles]

I assume you're working from the top?
Work from the bottom.

[Miami240z]

Ive tried working from the top and bottom. The damn bolt wont budge.

[mRclARK1]

Unbolt the engine mount brackets from the block...I found that way easier. Then you can remove the mounts from the car.

[mrmephistopheles]

Use a bigger wrench, or a breaker bar. Use extensions.
You're seeming to have a very big problem with 2 of the easiest nuts to remove on our cars.

[g6civcx]

Tips for you to remove the nuts:

1. Spray the engine mount nut liberally with PB Blaster and allow it to soak overnight. Tap the nut lightly with a hammer to let the vibration help the pentrant work through.

2. Use the correct socket. It's a 14mm. It is best to use a 6-point socket since they grab the nut at a sturdier portion and have less chance to strip or otherwise damage the nut.

3. Make sure you're turning it correctly. I know it sounds stupid, but looking up from underneath, you should be turning the nut counterclockwise to loosen.

4. It helps if you have a 6" or 12" extension. If you don't have one that long, get 2 6" and put them together, or put a bunch of 3" together. It will bring the ratchet out further so you have more room to work.

5. Use a breaker bar. You can use a jack handle or a long pipe. Slide it over the handle of the ratchet. It is best to have a helper to turn the breaker bar while you control the ratchet. Just go slowly and the nut will come loose.

Tips to prevent this from happening in the future:

a. It is best to use new hardware when reinstalling. You can order a new nut for about $2 from Performance Nissan. The new nut won't be damaged like the old one, and the new one has much better corrosion resistance.

b. Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces with a good penetrant cleaner. Brake cleaner and a stiff wire brush will do. This will make sure that no dirt and other contaminants will get on your new nut.

c. Use antiseize to make sure the threads don't rust and seize themselves together.

d. ALWAYS ALWAYS USE A QUALITY TORQUE WRENCH AND TORQUE TO SPECS.

:)

[Miami240z]

Thanks for the info. Since I wrote last I was able to get the bolt from the passenger side of the front clip. The other side it blocked by metal lines so its hard to even get the socket in. Then the room left to turn in less than 2 inches. Ill try the extension tip and come back in a few.

[g6civcx]

Which metal lines are you talking about? The passenger side on the clip would be the driver side on the US car :)

[theicecreamdan]

3. Make sure you're turning it correctly. I know it sounds stupid, but looking up from underneath, you should be turning the nut counterclockwise to loosen.

:)

From above or below you need to turn the nut CCW, it gets a little tricky when you are behind the nut, but its still turning CCW.

[g6civcx]

From above or below you need to turn the nut CCW, it gets a little tricky when you are behind the nut, but its still turning CCW.

Counter-clockwise is removal for standard threaded nuts and bolts. Make sure you're looking from the nut into the stud. If you were looking at it from the top of the engine bay, it would be clockwise. Just make sure you get your orientation correct.

[Miami240z]

Im turning the right way of course and i am talking about the US driver side japanese pass. side.

[Miami240z]

Its 2 in the morning and the engine is finally out. Hopefully Ill be able to get my KA out and the SR in and have a running car by Monday Night.