View Full Version : adjusted idle.. now stalls on decell
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 02:04 PM
So I turned down the idle adjusting screw until idle was around 800-750 ish..
but now if I clucth in from any RPM above 1k.. it wants to stall.
If I slow down using each gear and then slowly roll to a stop, it won't do that.
Its annoying 'cuz now that it idles where I want it, its unpredictable. Some of the time it will hold but most of the time not.
KA-T, open ATM BOV, 95 ECU in a 97 w/o re-pinning ECU harness (JWT),
I think that's all that should matter.
sillyvia13
04-17-2006, 02:10 PM
Recirculate your bov.
Sounds cool and breaths fire...:wackit:
...burns gaskets and stalls.:bash:
recirc and :2f2f:
peace
EchoOfSilence
04-17-2006, 02:13 PM
brings up a good point. a lot of people with idle problems run atmospheric BOV and it corrects when they recirc.
either that or your vacuum line(s) have rotted and need replacing, and/or your IACV needs servicing
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 02:15 PM
Its a turbo XS RFL, non-recirc'able.
But under 1k rpms the BOV isn't even opening, so how do you explain that then?
that's not my issue if the bov isn't even under enough pressure to open, right?
It would hesitate under idle if it had vac leak.
ONLY when I decell does this occur; when its just idling there.. it doesn't have any problems.
smithers584
04-17-2006, 03:27 PM
does it go away when you adjust your idle back to where it was? try running some cleaner through the IACV. do you have a SAFC or anything like that where you can adjust for the added fuel on the decel menu? are you unplugging the tps before you adjust it?
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 03:30 PM
It doesn't go away per say.. I mean, it doesn't stall.. but I was idling at 1k rpm and that's too high.
I don't have an SAFC, I have a BikiR0m stand alone.
I have to unplug the TPS to adjust the idle screw?
sillyvia13
04-17-2006, 03:38 PM
I would bet bov ...
i have a blitz bov non recirc and it suck to drive same stuff happened to me
then I began my life of home depot parts
took a hose and piped in a recirc hose and wala no more stalling...
I will post a pic but no laughing...custom pepboys intake system...temp til I weld up a intake system with the q45 mafs, big piping...
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 03:45 PM
Even under low loads? I don't even have to be very much above 1k rpms and it'll do it.
I packed my BOV kinda tight so I don't even think there's enough load to open it to make that the issue.
smithers584
04-17-2006, 06:09 PM
sorry forgot that you were KA-T, so i am not sure about unplugging the tps, but i know on a SR you are supposed to. i would still check for vacumm leaks, i had a few and a pretty big one on my cold pipe/TB connection and didnt even notice it until i put on my home made leak tester. i did a write up on it if you dont have one. same thing though was happening on my sr, and i fixed a few leaks and ran some cleaner through the IACV.
NIK90s13
04-17-2006, 06:20 PM
My 91 fsm said to unplug the tps when ajusting the idle.
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 06:45 PM
Well, I didn't... but the car has been off and on.. and off..
So do I still need to unplug it? haha...
I may just end up turning the screw back off a lil' more and deal with the high idle.
smithers584
04-17-2006, 06:57 PM
i would try cleaning it, and when you do then i would adjust the idle with the tps unplugged and give it a try, cant hurt.
NIK90s13
04-17-2006, 07:03 PM
No, yes, no? HA HA!!! In truth, I do'nt think it's the entire problem. It sounds some what intermitten.
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 07:15 PM
I don't think so either. When I had the manifold off.. about 3-4 months ago, I cleaned the IACV pretty thoroughly...
Most of my vacuum lines are brand new or have been checked. I pull a good 22psi vacuum (so says my gauge) so I doubt its a leak anywhere.
smithers584
04-17-2006, 07:20 PM
im not trying to be rude, but have you actually tried anything recently or are you just asking for help and shooting down ideas because of what you dont "think" it is? maybe you have been doing stuff, but i always suspect anything, no matter when the last time i changed, cleaned, or looked at it.
NemeGuero
04-17-2006, 07:27 PM
I'm at school, I'll check when i get home.
But what has been suggested besides recirculating.. which couldn't logically cause the issue, cleaning the IACV, which I cleaned a few months ago, and unplugging the TPS?
I'm reading steady vacuum = no leaks.
It idles fine when its sitting, so why IACV?
Yah, suggestions are great, but if I can eliminate time by reasoning out variables first, why the hell not?
I like to understand what could be causing the problem, not just doing a bunch of things and hoping it fixes the issue.
smithers584
04-17-2006, 07:31 PM
ok you can do that. i did that when i first started working with my sr and realized that did absolutely nothing for me. i am telling you i had the same problem, and that is what i did. my vacumm read 20 all the time, but i still had vacumm leaks i didnt know about. i changed my fuel filter which was 2 months old, it was already clogged pretty good. i mean come on now, it may not fix your car and maybe everything is good, but there is no real way of telling without physically testing.
NemeGuero
04-19-2006, 08:51 PM
Ok, so I warmed up the car.. and then I unplugged the TPS and it died.
Figured I had adjusted the screw too much when the TPS was plugged in so I backed it off and started the car again.
It was running fine, so I adjusted the idle to around 750-800.
I plugged the TPS back in and the idle jumped up again to just below 1k.
I went around driving and it wouldn't stall anymore, but the RPMs did drop below idle status for a quick second. (I was out of boost the whole time.)
But now my idle is higher than I want again.
Bad TPS? I'm gonna go measure the voltage on it now.
smithers584
04-19-2006, 08:57 PM
yeah i have the same thing going on, and for me i know my tps is good because i tested the voltage. i set the idle around 850 and it always ends up around 1000 after i plug the tps in. maybe it is going bad, its testing good though. might be the actual AICV.
S14DB
04-19-2006, 09:00 PM
Sure the car was warmed up? like off the cold map?
Get rid of the rice whistle.
The KA's TB fully closes at idle. The TPS should read it closed and open the IACV. Check the voltage. could just be out of alignment.
Ritz S14
04-19-2006, 09:11 PM
Get a BOV you can recirc. Done.
NemeGuero
04-19-2006, 09:20 PM
Yah, the thermo read in the middle of the guage before I unplugged the TPS.
How do you align the TPS? I've never removed it so I don't know how it could have miss-aligned.
And you guys wanna buy me a BOV? I got this one for free!!
And its not stalling anymore, revs just still drop and now idle is back higher 'cuz of TPS! READ RITZ! lol <3
Nizzan4u2nv
04-19-2006, 09:28 PM
Did you set the timing? Set the timing, then idle. Warm up motor to operating temp, disconnect tps, rev past 3k 3 times to lock timing and put ecu in timing mode, set the timing, then set the idle. You have to be in timing mode to set the idle properly.
NemeGuero
04-19-2006, 09:42 PM
Set timing how? Timing is set where it needs to be.
Please clarify.
smithers584
04-19-2006, 10:14 PM
to adjust the tps, you need to loosten the two bolts so you can swivel it. then just turn the car to on and stick multi meter leads in the back of the plug and watch the voltage as someone presses on the gas pedal. cant remember the specs so you need to check your FSM since you are KA-T. SR is like 4.4 volts at wide open or something like that.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-26-2006, 02:59 PM
im having this same problem. i know my afc has decel setting but is it good to use that? if not, id rather just recirc the bov. i have the blitz dd. i know theres a thread on here somewhere on how to recirc these bovs
NemeGuero
04-26-2006, 03:03 PM
Yah, use the Decel or recirc.
Recirculating is good. I will eventually do it when I'm at the point where I can just buy another BOV or I can get a type-H fitting for my BOV.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-26-2006, 04:07 PM
its just that when i use the decel function, my idle stays at like 1100rpm then drops to about 850 after a while of idle. this happens when im daily driving and comming to stop lights :/ its annoying.
NemeGuero
04-26-2006, 04:12 PM
Its happening to me too.
Recirc time.
LigouriRd
04-26-2006, 04:13 PM
It has been my experience that KA's do not like having to suck though a slowly spinning compressor. I had a Type H diverter valve and my idle still sat a 1k where with the tps unplugged and timing set properly the idle was at 700. My idle bounced between 500 and 1k and sometimes died once fully warm. Setting the decel air didn't help either.
When I decreased the spring force on the Type H so that it would open under the vacumme of idle the problem went away. Since I did not want the cap to go flying off into the engine bay, I ended up getting a forge diveter for an Evo 8 and using the softest spring. Idles is beautiful and even though I have SAFC, I don't need Decel Air settings.
NemeGuero
04-26-2006, 04:25 PM
Damn, well anyone wanna buy my BOV?
Thanks for the info LigouriRd, and you're recirculated right?
jdm_s14_zenki
04-26-2006, 04:58 PM
i loosened the spring on my blitz bov like almost all the way. drives smooth and idles pretty good and everything. i still get that weird stumble like every 7-10 seconds when my engine is cold. it goes away after the engine is warm, but its still there sometimes.
Now when im driving, the bov blows off even it theres no boost. it makes more of a fluttering sound now instead of a PSHHHH!!! and even when im boosting, and blow off, it still makes the fluttering sound, just louder. wonder if i should tighten the spring a little more? can any damage occur from this?
Maeda
04-26-2006, 05:41 PM
Neme. You have KA-T Syndrome. How far is your maf from turbo inlet?
I'm betting its only a few inches away....
Turbulence when you get off throttle causes the flood and stall.
Move the maf, or bump the idle to 1200-1500(it should be over 1000 anyway), or get a recirc(like a pussy), no BOV(like a man), or use emanage or safcII.
Even with your fixed TPS the problem will occur again most likely when the weather conditions change.... If the maf is REALLY CLOSE this stall will even happen without a BOV.
NemeGuero
04-26-2006, 06:02 PM
Actually the MAF is pretty far. its below the body of the car, at least a foot away. My filter and MAF sit in front of the tire.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4804/img00049py.th.jpg (http://img149.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img00049py.jpg)
here for reference. But the MAF is still below the engine bay.
it idles 900 now.. but still doesn't drop immediately after a clutch in.
I'm probably gonna recirc... ghey, I know. Unless bikiR0m hurries up and gets the MAP sensor option.
Maeda
04-26-2006, 06:06 PM
Nice. NO DO NOT RECIRC. I will drive up there and punch you in the back of the head when you're not looking if you do and I find out.
Turn the idle up to 1200. Turbo cars are SUPPOSED to idle about 1000 or more. Don't sweat it. You should also check your fuel map(MAF is far you should NOT be having this problem unless your part throttle afms are way rich)...
jdm_s14_zenki: Spring way tight + flutter sound? Small compressor surge. No problems will come from this unless you're hitting high boost #s and the BOV still doesn't go off. Anything over 2-3 psi the BOV should open.
NemeGuero
04-26-2006, 06:18 PM
LOL, well to avoid getting punched, I guess I won't recirc.
Maybe I should just loosen the spring? I have all the washers that'll fit packed in there.
Yah, the car was tuned WOT so maybe its time to hit a dyno and have it fine tuned.
Maeda
04-26-2006, 06:21 PM
You have an afc to fine tune that ecu of yours?
FINE tuning on part throttle doesnt really happen on a KA....... Just try and take out some fuel where boost isn't. I suspect the ecu taking out timing across the board and you can't really do much about that.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-26-2006, 06:41 PM
Nice. NO DO NOT RECIRC. I will drive up there and punch you in the back of the head when you're not looking if you do and I find out.
Turn the idle up to 1200. Turbo cars are SUPPOSED to idle about 1000 or more. Don't sweat it. You should also check your fuel map(MAF is far you should NOT be having this problem unless your part throttle afms are way rich)...
jdm_s14_zenki: Spring way tight + flutter sound? Small compressor surge. No problems will come from this unless you're hitting high boost #s and the BOV still doesn't go off. Anything over 2-3 psi the BOV should open.
actually the spring is loosened almost all the way so it blows off anytime i let off the throttle, even if theres no boost. and when there is boost, i still get the fluttering sound, im just gonna tighten it tonite.
EchoOfSilence
04-27-2006, 02:56 AM
He doesn't have an afc and yeah he does run really rich during part throttle (i've watched his afr's while he drives)
Maeda, why are you so against recirculating?
NemeGuero
04-27-2006, 10:20 AM
He doesn't have an afc and yeah he does run really rich during part throttle (i've watched his afr's while he drives)
Maeda, why are you so against recirculating?
Well its hard to tell without actually datalogging the AFR's. I mean, you won't really know what I'm hitting until you see the solid numbers, and since my wideband doesn't have datalogging.. its teh suck.
And I don't need an AFC. I have all the fuel control I need.
S14DB
04-27-2006, 01:22 PM
The Bikirom don't have data logging?
NemeGuero
04-27-2006, 01:34 PM
yah, it does but this software release doesn't have the input for the wideband yet.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-27-2006, 01:55 PM
damn, so i tightened the spring on the bov as far as i could while still fitting the lock nut on there..didnt do anything. still flutters at the point between vacuum and boost, and the sound is comming from the intake. i can rev the car in neutral and it flutters like crazy.
NemeGuero
04-27-2006, 04:19 PM
You were supposed to loosen it. The fluttering is compressor surge.
I love that sound.
EchoOfSilence
04-27-2006, 04:26 PM
You were supposed to loosen it. The fluttering is compressor surge.
I love that sound.
soooo sexy.
sooo bad in the long run hahaha
jdm_s14_zenki
04-27-2006, 04:31 PM
ya i know, that sound really turns heads...but cops check me out too..
anyways, see the thing is, i tightened it because it was fluttering when it was all the way loose too! but i guess i'll loosen it up again and try again..maybe the fluttering was comming from the bov and not the intake when it was loose, and when its tight its comming from the intake? i dunno, im getting frustrated and starting to ramble cus i cant get my mind off of this damn problem. and i still have that cold engine stumble, and i heard that loosening the bov would leak at idle..
NemeGuero
04-27-2006, 04:35 PM
Do you even have a vacuum line hooked up to your BOV? you're fluttering it with it all the way loose?! WTF mate? replace that BOV then.
Haha, and what's a new t3/t4 every year anyway.. well worth the added sexiness.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-27-2006, 07:52 PM
of course i have the vacuum line hooked up! it still flutters when the spring is all the way loose. i think maybe the piston might be stuck, or the spring is too stiff. i'll check it out tonite though..if the spring is too stiff, then i should be able to cut the spring right and that would pretty much take care of the problem?
Rogue240sx
04-27-2006, 09:35 PM
cutting the spring will make it stiffer, don't do it.
SpeedMonkeyInc
04-27-2006, 09:47 PM
NemeGuero forget all this recirc stuff. Go blow through. Come drive my car and see how good life can be.
S14DB
04-27-2006, 10:07 PM
MAP + IAT FTW1!! :bigok:
NemeGuero
04-27-2006, 10:25 PM
NemeGuero forget all this recirc stuff. Go blow through. Come drive my car and see how good life can be.
I'm down! You got your turbo back, yes?
When you wanna meet up? I'm leaving town this weekend... but during next week or next weekend?
SpeedMonkeyInc
04-27-2006, 10:42 PM
Yeup. Car is running great. I will PM you about the rest.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-28-2006, 01:02 AM
cutting the spring will make it stiffer, don't do it.
WRONG! I cut the spring and problem solved! didnt know a blitz sounded sooooooooooooooooo good..till today.
smithers584
04-28-2006, 02:18 AM
i would think cutting a spring would make it softer because the spring was made to oppose a certain amount of force with the right amount of length and coils, so dont you think if you cut a spring in half then it would have about half the resistance? i dont know any mathematics for it, but thats my theory, it would have less resistance.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-28-2006, 02:28 AM
its one thing to assume, its another thing to prove. and well, i cut the spring, and there was less spring tension. and i cut it a little too much, so i had to tighten the screw almost all the way to the top of the lock nut
NemeGuero
04-28-2006, 02:34 AM
alright dude, I give in. Think its ok.
smithers584
04-28-2006, 02:39 AM
oh i was agreeing with you jdm s14 zenki. just was putting my 2 cents in on why it would cause the spring to be softer.
NemeGuero
04-28-2006, 02:45 AM
it shortens the spring.. in essence, loosening the pressure on it.
jdm_s14_zenki
04-28-2006, 11:03 AM
oh i was agreeing with you jdm s14 zenki. just was putting my 2 cents in on why it would cause the spring to be softer.
i know you were agreeing with me :]
sillyvia13
05-19-2006, 08:02 PM
MAP + IAT FTW1!! :bigok:
Ditto :wackit: :mephfawk: :fruit:
infinitexsound
05-19-2006, 08:55 PM
nice revival u contributed to well
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