PDA

View Full Version : car "sputtering" when rolling at around 3k rpms HELP!!


devonkyle77
04-14-2006, 05:42 PM
Trying to clean up a mess of posts on here, so i will put everything in my first post on this thread
i have replaced the following now, this is on an 97 s14 ka24de and manual transmision:
spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, fuel filter, maf, 02 sensors, ait sensor, and air filter. running premium fuel.
i ran seafoam in all three locations suggested. all grounds look good.

car sputters at all rpms under 3500, primarily around 2-3000 rpms. the car DOES rev all the way to redline though.
in a 45 minute drive, it may sputter for 5 seconds once while im driving, or 5 times for five seconds.very random.
it does not happen every time i drive.
more often than not, it does the sputtering after i shift.

my check engine light has come on a few times. 3 times to be exact. when it first came on, i went to the shop and had them pull the codes. iat and maf. i replaced the iat with a new one, and replaced the maf with one with only 50k miles on it. cleaned the maf. went back to the shop had codes cleared. ran fine for several days, then check engine light came back on, again reading maf and iat. so i went back, had codes cleared and it lasted a few days again. as soon as the CEL came back, the car started sputtering randomly. when it was gone, it didnt happen once.

anyone have any idea? this is really killing me.

dan240
04-14-2006, 07:47 PM
Could be a lot of things. My idle and surging problem was solved by replacing the PCV valve.

fliprayzin240sx
04-15-2006, 04:01 AM
Does it rev pass 3k? Shiet like he said it could be 5984205 different things. More info would help.

bik
04-15-2006, 01:32 PM
i had that problem for a couple of month man i try everithing, check the presure of the fuel pump, chenge the filter, reground the maf, change a small crac on the distributor cap, clean the maf like 3 times and never got to work it rigth, until i clean the IACV O_o now my car runs great ^_^

speedstar01
04-15-2006, 02:12 PM
try spraying some throttle body cleaner into the IACV valve. (on my S13, i sprayed down the tube just above the trottle body and a lil to the right.) start it up, it will run like crap for a couple minutes, but it even my car out!!! doesnt die when idleing and she purrrrrssss like a kitten.:love: WOOT WOOT!

DJPimpFlex
04-15-2006, 08:31 PM
what motor?????

devonkyle77
04-16-2006, 02:41 AM
ka24de in an s14

blu808
04-16-2006, 02:52 AM
Could be alot of things. Could be anything from a clogged fuel strainer (attached to fuel pump) to whatever, burned up plugs, coil, iacv, whatever.

Give us a better description of the prob. when, where, how, huh, etc.

Nizzan4u2nv
04-16-2006, 02:50 PM
Do a tuneup to eliminate a lot of things. Plugs, wires, cap/rotor, air filter(if bad), 02 sensor. Then set base timing, idle, and TPS voltage. Clean IACV and maf element. Check for cracked vac hoses and what not. If all else fail, possibly a bad fuel pump, bad injectors/o rings, or something along those lines.

smithers584
04-17-2006, 06:16 PM
ok well first off with electronic sensors, dont assume anything. i had this problem and it was my 02 sensor. totally intermittent, but it was simple, i shot the 02 with a meter and it read open. so i replaced it, took about five minutes to figure out what the problem was. if you have specs for everything you can eleviate a lot of work just by taking a little bit of time and narrowing down what it is not without guessing.

NIK90s13
04-17-2006, 06:46 PM
If the cap is barely cracked it can be intermitten. Like if it loads up voltage just right, ect... Like ''Smithers'' and ''nissan4u2nv'' said, start checking and eliminating what it's not. Post what you find or do'nt find. GL

tre
04-26-2006, 08:24 PM
it COULD just be your o2 sensor.

I ran no o2 for 6 months. had a straight 22mpg every fillup -.-

But anyways I installed a new one and car ran like shit until it retuned itself to lean out at cuising low rpms 2-4.5k ish.

Hell i'll pick you one up from the dealership if you call and order it. Don't worry bout shipping i'll just ship it through my work lol. NP gets a 20% discount at Campbell Nelson Nissan.

NemeGuero
09-03-2006, 02:07 PM
God damn, you're still having this problem?
sucks man. sorry to hear

idlafie
09-03-2006, 06:02 PM
i noticed it does it more often than not, right after i shift...does that help?
also at this point, all 02 sensors have been changed, fuel pump and filter replaced, and i just ordered a MAF. hoping that may be it.

Is your Check Engine Light on? If it is, then pull the Diagnostic Trouble Code from the ECU & post it here. If not, check the ECU for a Diagnostic Trouble Code anyway. When your car sputters after the shift, do you notice any loss of power or hesitation at all?? Don't remember if you posted or not, but is your car auto or stick?? Also, what year is your car or when was it built / production date? Might make a difference or not.
A couple things you might want to try: 1). Check your throttle cable running from the gas pedal to the throttle body intake assembly. Make sure to tighten up any loose slack in the throttle cable. A slowly responding throttle plate due to a loose throttle cable could be a cause of the sputtering. 2)). Check for vacuum leaks or disconnected / melted or cut vacuum lines around the fuel pressure regulator, EGR valve & carbon cannister (95-early 96). 96+ models got rid of carbon cannister & switched over to sensor controlled gas vapor recirculating system. You'll need a FSM for this but check, clean & test the fuel pressure regulator, EGR valve & carbon cannister / gas recirculating system to make sure they are working as they should be. Carbon buildup in the EGR system could prevent the EGR valve from functioning properly resulting in the sputtering.
http://autorepair.about.com/od/generalinfo/l/bldef165.htm
Try the above & see if it helps. Post back & let us know what the results were.
ID

NIK90s13
09-03-2006, 07:03 PM
Ok this is way low tech, but check your plug gap. My car had a similar problem and just regapimg cleard the hesation. It's worth a try and it wont cost you.

steve shadows
09-11-2006, 06:03 PM
ok my check engine light has come on a few times. 3 times to be exact. when it first came on, i went to the shop and had them pull the codes. iat and maf. i replaced the iat with a new one, and replaced the maf with one with only 50k miles on it. cleaned the maf. went back to the shop had codes cleared. ran fine for several days, then check engine light came back on, again reading maf and iat. so i went back, had codes cleared and it lasted a few days again. as soon as the CEL came back, the car started sputtering randomly. when it was gone, it didnt happen once.

anyone have any idea? this is really killing me.

what condition is the wiring to maf? rev issues in the 2500-3000 rpm on nissan oem ecus are almost always related to maf signal issues or no maf working at all.
Follow up deeper on this lead. check the pin on the ecu for maf signal, power, and ground, and go buy a voltmete while your oat it/.

arian23
09-11-2006, 06:47 PM
What is the iacv? And how do you clean it? This is a real questions so dont try to be cool and flame me. Thanks!

devonkyle77
09-11-2006, 07:08 PM
please see my first post on this thread for a break down of whats going on with the car.

NemeGuero
09-11-2006, 07:09 PM
Idle Air Control Valve

you clean it by removing the hose that connects to the intake just before the throttle body and spraying carb cleaner inside of it while the engine is running.

devonkyle77
09-11-2006, 07:21 PM
wiring to maf looks fine, and i should mention i have an SAFC2.

95zilvia
09-12-2006, 05:01 AM
What do you have an SAFC2 for.
Maybe that is screwing your car up.
So many things to check.
What you really need to do, is make a list.
Make a list of all the things that it could be
And fix/check each one.

I know it's frustrating to isolate the problem when it is so intermittent.
Is your motor all stock?
Don't sell your car, love your car.

Maybe, check your TPS sensor, I dont see anyone mentioning that, and it's real easy to check.
Look it up on the FSM, if you don't have one, invest in one.

Another thing, you can buy yourself a generic code reader from an auto parts store like autozone or kragens.
You could use that to reset your code and have ur car run good for however long it may last.
If you are paying to have to reset your codes, buy code resetter so you can do it yourself

Nizzan4u2nv
09-12-2006, 11:43 AM
Take out the SAFC.

steve shadows
09-12-2006, 02:04 PM
Take out the SAFC.:axe: :axe: :axe: :axe: :axe: :axe: :axe: :axe: :rl: :rl: :rl: :rl: :rl: :rl: :rl: :rl:

why do you even have one in there?

devonkyle77
09-12-2006, 04:47 PM
preparing for kat until this started happening.

arian23
09-13-2006, 03:11 AM
My car does the same thing. When its at like 2500 rpm i hit the gas and it sputters. So annoying. Or if I go around a corner and press the gas it sputters! When its at idle and in neutral I hit the gas and it does it again. I have a check engine light for my rear O2 sensor. I wanna fix this problem but im broke! What should I do.

NemeGuero
09-13-2006, 04:16 AM
Mine does it too.. but mine is because I suddenly go really lean under a certain load..

with no explanation of why..

ManoNegra
09-13-2006, 12:46 PM
So you replaced your AIT and MAF and the codes keep popping up...
Try checking the continuity of the sensor wires with a meter. Could be a harness issue.

arian23
09-13-2006, 02:09 PM
Anyone in the area know how to check this in So Cal??? MAybe someone wants to lend a hand in help?????? Im a broke student.

devonkyle77
09-13-2006, 02:24 PM
at this point whoever fixes my car i will give $100 bucks. this is when i wish i lived in socal.

NemeGuero
09-13-2006, 05:33 PM
I'll fix it if you:

1. fly me out there, feed me, and give me a bed while I work
2. give me your kouki tails.

haha

devonkyle77
09-22-2006, 04:45 PM
i really feel as if the lower my fuel level goes the more often it happens
fuel filter and fuel pump have been replaced. could this be FPR?

BraddahJon
09-23-2006, 11:39 PM
Damn sounds like what my car is doin. I replaced my Maf, tps, pcv valve, plugs, rotor, cap, plus compression check 170 each cylinder, fuel pressure tested at fuel filter, vaccum checked out too. Im goin crazy, mine does it when the car warms up.

SnakeKack
09-24-2006, 01:16 AM
My 300zx would do something similar. It turned out to be the knock sensor was bad, so it would retard the timing to prevent detonation but once I hit over 3000 rpm it seemed fine because that is when the sensor turned off. Maybe check that out?