vinhisbored
04-09-2006, 11:55 AM
I have this posted on KA-T.org too, but no replies yet, so I thought I'd put it out a bit more, because maybe you SR guys have had the same problem..
Here's the post..
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=87274#87274
(just posted in case someone on that forum replied, and you could know what they had to say about it)
And here are the contents...
Basically now I know I'm running rich.. but I hope that's the only reason, and that an SAFC could solve the problem. The symptoms of my car are as follows..
1. My car backfires like a mofo.. and I tend to blow lots of big flames.. even when I'm not giving my car gas at all.
2. There's this strong smell of GAS in my car when I drive.. I already checked.. the tank is closed correctly/tightly, so the reason isn't because it wasn't closed correctly.
3. After driving my car for a few minutes with some new spark plugs in, the tips of them were BLACK.
4. When driving in all gears that are HIGHER than first, but when I'm driving at less than 2000 RPM's, the car seems to lag.. and I don't mean as in it runs in "N/A" status it lags, I mean it's not really going anywhere when I give it gas "lag".
5. My boost gauge reads 5 psi, and sometimes spikes to 6-7 psi, but then there is no pull to it.
6. My BOV still goes off after giving it some gas (when the rpm's tend to go "higher").
7. There is ALOT of compressor surge. It occurs even when I'll be driving at 2000 RPMs but giving it a good amount of gas.
8. Sometimes when driving above 3000 RPMs, but with WOT, the car will start bogging when it gets up into that RPM range & higher. If I feather the gas & let the rpm's go up slowly, the car will just go regular, but will still have compressor sure when shifting.
9. The wastegate still opens, and it usually goes off around the 3000 RPMs range, when the car starts bogging.
10. I'm getting horrible gas mileage.. about 10 mpg give or take.
So here's what's going on with my car.. here is my setup so everyone knows what I'm working with..
Garrett t3/t04e 70 trim compressor, .63 A/R
GReddy 240sx KA24DE Intercooler kit 24V
GReddy 38mm wastegate
Enthalpy ROM Tune - 550cc injectors, Z32 maf, speed cut removed, etc.. -
HKS SSQBOV
Deashwerks injectors (550cc)
Z32 maf
Apexi Boost Gauge
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Apexi Turbo Timer and harness
Rev Hard Manifold + turbo elbow
Westco battery + relocation parts
I was still running rich with the Enthalpy ecu, and I contacted Scott about it. He sent me new chips, and after installing them, my car ran a little bit better & smoother, but it's still not good. So since there was a slight difference after I had the new chips in, I was thinking that the problem is in the fuel/air/etc. I just went out and bought an SAFC2 so I can get my car dyno tuned.
I know that it doesn't make sense because I have the ecu tune, but then that's what I thought at first, and I don't really want to deal with going back and forth to Scott and bothering him to get me new chips everytime it doesn't run great.. it's like a mission to get a hold of him. Also, just because of this problem, my car's been down for 3-4 months, and I really want to just get it done, running, and over with.
I did check the injectors.. O-rings are good.. I mean they did come straight from Deashwerks, and we know that he reconditions the injectors, puts new O-rings, as well as sends the flow chart. The vacuum lines seem to all be connected, and it doesn't look like there's any leaks in the intercooler/piping.
So my last question.. do you guys think that after the dyno/safc tune, my car will be running in top notch shape?
Here's the post..
http://www.ka-t.org/forums/viewtopic.php?p=87274#87274
(just posted in case someone on that forum replied, and you could know what they had to say about it)
And here are the contents...
Basically now I know I'm running rich.. but I hope that's the only reason, and that an SAFC could solve the problem. The symptoms of my car are as follows..
1. My car backfires like a mofo.. and I tend to blow lots of big flames.. even when I'm not giving my car gas at all.
2. There's this strong smell of GAS in my car when I drive.. I already checked.. the tank is closed correctly/tightly, so the reason isn't because it wasn't closed correctly.
3. After driving my car for a few minutes with some new spark plugs in, the tips of them were BLACK.
4. When driving in all gears that are HIGHER than first, but when I'm driving at less than 2000 RPM's, the car seems to lag.. and I don't mean as in it runs in "N/A" status it lags, I mean it's not really going anywhere when I give it gas "lag".
5. My boost gauge reads 5 psi, and sometimes spikes to 6-7 psi, but then there is no pull to it.
6. My BOV still goes off after giving it some gas (when the rpm's tend to go "higher").
7. There is ALOT of compressor surge. It occurs even when I'll be driving at 2000 RPMs but giving it a good amount of gas.
8. Sometimes when driving above 3000 RPMs, but with WOT, the car will start bogging when it gets up into that RPM range & higher. If I feather the gas & let the rpm's go up slowly, the car will just go regular, but will still have compressor sure when shifting.
9. The wastegate still opens, and it usually goes off around the 3000 RPMs range, when the car starts bogging.
10. I'm getting horrible gas mileage.. about 10 mpg give or take.
So here's what's going on with my car.. here is my setup so everyone knows what I'm working with..
Garrett t3/t04e 70 trim compressor, .63 A/R
GReddy 240sx KA24DE Intercooler kit 24V
GReddy 38mm wastegate
Enthalpy ROM Tune - 550cc injectors, Z32 maf, speed cut removed, etc.. -
HKS SSQBOV
Deashwerks injectors (550cc)
Z32 maf
Apexi Boost Gauge
Walbro 255 fuel pump
Apexi Turbo Timer and harness
Rev Hard Manifold + turbo elbow
Westco battery + relocation parts
I was still running rich with the Enthalpy ecu, and I contacted Scott about it. He sent me new chips, and after installing them, my car ran a little bit better & smoother, but it's still not good. So since there was a slight difference after I had the new chips in, I was thinking that the problem is in the fuel/air/etc. I just went out and bought an SAFC2 so I can get my car dyno tuned.
I know that it doesn't make sense because I have the ecu tune, but then that's what I thought at first, and I don't really want to deal with going back and forth to Scott and bothering him to get me new chips everytime it doesn't run great.. it's like a mission to get a hold of him. Also, just because of this problem, my car's been down for 3-4 months, and I really want to just get it done, running, and over with.
I did check the injectors.. O-rings are good.. I mean they did come straight from Deashwerks, and we know that he reconditions the injectors, puts new O-rings, as well as sends the flow chart. The vacuum lines seem to all be connected, and it doesn't look like there's any leaks in the intercooler/piping.
So my last question.. do you guys think that after the dyno/safc tune, my car will be running in top notch shape?