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stevejames3
03-30-2006, 07:39 PM
hey my motor was running like shit after the swap(only took it down the road like 3 times for test run) so i thought i had a blown headgasket. so i took the head off and headgasket was fine but i had a hole in piston 4. there was also coolant getting into the cylinder. im looking for a few answers. i tore it all apart myself and i know what im doing when working on a car for the most part, but im not sure what kinda mechine work i will be needing. i have 4 pistons ordered, rings and a full bearing set. but like i said im not farmiliar with mechine and what is all entailed in getting this block ready for a rebuild(supposing the block isnt cracked. anything else i should buy or look into. also if anyone has pistons/shortblock or knows anyone with some stuff i can use, email [email protected] please. thanks alot in advance. Steve

TheWolf
03-30-2006, 07:46 PM
Ok steve since you know what your are doing most of the time and you've already ordered parts then machine the block to the size of the parts you've ordered. :)

stevejames3
03-30-2006, 08:03 PM
well i mean i can get the block stripped and put it back together when i get it back. but what type of machining will i need done, if i hone the block do i need bigger pistons, i just wanna do a stock rebuild. is there anything else i missed on the parts. im looking to get info so when i take my block in i know what i want and need so i dont waste any money as i am already about broke. ill probly go through enjukuracing.com or phase2 for stock pistons rings and bearings.

TheWolf
03-31-2006, 04:54 AM
This is what you do. First you take the block, crankshaft, and connecting rods to a machine shop. Tell them you want to measure the wear in the bores, to give you each journal size and to check the connecting rods for bend and wear. He will come back and say that like the cylinders are worn .00x" Since you plan on buying new pistons just go ahead and bore it. It will need to be bored, honed and surfaced. That will be around 150-$200. Say you guys agree to go .020" oversize. He will need .020" oversize pistons from enjuku before he can hone it. Your head might need to be surfaced as well. Ask him if he has a CBN surfacer. They produce a finer finish and are newer. It's what is required to get a MLS style head gasket to seal. I don't know what enjuku charges for pistons but we have mahle motorspots forged sr20det with rings on sale for $425 this month. once you get your block done. The crankshaft will have different sizes for each journal. Then you can take that and start trying to put together a graded bearing set to adjust your oil clearances if you want to get technical. Having the connecting rods machined is important. Most people don't realize that the rods will stretch and the big end will start to look like an oval. This messes up your oil clearance and leads to spun rods.

drifter808
03-31-2006, 09:37 AM
when i rebuilt mine i didn't even take it to a machine shop. i just bought a honer from napa and hooked it up to my drill. bought all new pistons and rings from phase2 and a new apexi headgasket. its a cheaper way to go for a stock style rebuild. im running the engine now with no problems what so ever. even raced it last sunday and it performed great.

stevejames3
03-31-2006, 05:43 PM
would it be dumb to do 20 over forged and stick with stock rods? how strong are stock rods. i am running a hks gt2510 which is rated at like 300 hp so it wont be getting monster power. but i figure for 200 more get forged and bore over 20 incase i go bigger next winter or something. if it would be pointless i will just go stock rebuild and thats all. and wolf, that was a beautiful response. thats exactly what kinda info i was looking for, thanks alot.

fliprayzin240sx
03-31-2006, 06:13 PM
Honestly, stock pistons and rods are good to 500hp reliably. If your strapped for cash, stay with the stock rods. Fresh bearings and maybe ARP studs the whole bottom.

drifter808
03-31-2006, 06:17 PM
yeah its definently not necessary. my friends are making around 400 hp on stock bottom ends.