Suspension help..

[BEISSEN]

Ok I was told I needed more parts to make a solid supension.They are RUCA's and that took me a week to figure out what that was.But here is what I plan Megan racing coilovers and I am looking at Cusco Rear Upper Camber arms what else is needed to get the car to be solid and not have to worry about camber issues to get uneven tire wear.Please only post productive post and dont bash me this will be on either a S14 if I can get one decently priced or a S13 Hatch.I have 5 months left in Iraq but its been to long and to many parts are now offered for the S-Chassie unlike before.When you post please explain what the part/s do so I can learn and later educate others as I have gotten here.

[NIK90s13]

Dude What branch? You are military, right? I was in, My older brother was in My younger brother is still in, and going to get his 20 years, All Navy. My humble thank for serving.
All that being said, what are you going to set the car up for? Daily driver, auto cross, strip, ect.
If you want stiff, as in littel to know body roll, get rear and frunt sway bars, they controll the amount of ''roll'' the car gives in a turn, Sub frame spacers or bushings, that takes the ''hop'' out when you wheel spin, (they go in between the body and the cradle (that hold the differential and your lower suspension) I have the spacers on now, and I have the bushing in the freezer for when I get 2 seconds of spare time to put them in. I just put in a Limited slip differential (what the axels and driveshaft hook up to) This allows both tires to spin at the same time when you wheel spin, instead of the ''one wheeler peeler''
You have so many options in this area, and you will probably get some ''flaming'' from some. You need to go to the hallowed ''serch'' to reserch this question. Good luck

[BEISSEN]

Well the car will be setup for Daily Driveing and some track ie Drag and I want to learn how to drift the right way since I will be going to back to DC va area.I am military and I am ARMY suppose to be getting out in about 8 months.

[NIK90s13]

Cool, You will here alot of defferent angles on how to set up your car, to drift. You need stiff,My first sugestion is the limited slip differential, that gets both wheels spinning. There are all types of stiffining equipment, sway bars strut tower braces(a bar that goes from one shock top to the other)Rollcage if you are going that far. Its really up to you, Remember doing this will make your ride rough.
I run KYB ajustible shocks, rear sway bar subframe spacers, soon to go to the bushings, strut bars limited slip diff, tien springs. Its alittle rough, but I dont mind the rough, compared to the preformance.

[BEISSEN]

Yeah a rough ride is a givin but Im not to worried.I have planned for Megan Racing Track Coilovers 12kg/10kg and some cusco camber arms for camber adjustment for the rear.The Strut bars also were in the plan as well.Now as far as LSD which is a good one I have read and alot of people are talking about the KAZZ being really harsh but what other ones are there that I can go with that will take min modifacation.I have also planned Exhaust N1 Dual,B&M Short Shifter and a filter kit.I dont want to waste to much on parts that I will get rid of later when I do a turbo build.

[aznpoopy]

beissen... go to splparts and look at the front and rear suspension sections. they'll have all the suspension pieces in diagrams.

there's more then just bushings, shock/springs and sway bar.

front = tie rod, tension rod, lca
rear = ruca, lateral link, toe rod, traction rod, lca

etc

[NIK90s13]

gee, is there really more then bushings, shocks, and sway bars? Really/ NO!?

[NIK90s13]

Like aznopooly said, look for what fits what you are doing, there is a world of upgrades you can do.

[kandyflip445]

As far as chassis bracing goes I'd suggest the Nismo Power Brace FIRST. It stiffens the T/C rod brackets and links them/front frame rails together. The s13 hatch benefits greatly from this mod. The second one I would suggest is the Rear Cross Bar. It links the bottom of the B-pillars together and goes in the cabin behind the front seats. It does a lot to add stiffness to the chassis compared to front and rear stb's.

Before those I would do bushings. I've riden in a car that had a ES bushing kit in it and compared to my car with the braces the suspension seems like it's working better. The chassis stiffness is apparent though. I love the change it's made.

First thing out of all would be an LSD. I'm going to get an HLSD but for the things you want to do definately get a clutch LSD. If you really want you could get one of the spool ones offered by people on here.

[BEISSEN]

Ok this is alot of great help but my question is not really answered.I got that I need a LSD ie HLSD.I was told that in the other topic lol its like 2 are started now.But Im still tring to figure what a HLSD is exacly or what brands are a HLSD and I know there are clutch type LSD and then a Gear LSD is that correct?

[xagna]

Safe home please!
You can worry about your coilovers and RUCAs later. We are all here to help you.

Having LSD helps a lot but not required for beginners right away. But better to have it within the first season. Just learn the feeling of initiating slide first.

For coilover, go for something lower than 8/6. Megan coilover (not the track one) is 8/6. You need some weight transfer to start slide. 12/10 is too stiff. If you still want something really stiff, look into Stance coilover which give you two sets of different springs of 8/6 9/7 respectively.

RUCA, braces, you don't need these right away too if you start to learn to drift. It is better to put these on as you progress. But changing bushings ASAP is strongly recommanded. With old bushings, it is hard to learn the feel of drift.

[1Via!]

A Helical LSD is not something you want for drifting. You want a clutch type 2 way.

The only helical LSD really worth anything for a s-chassis is the s15 oem one, and unless youre building a car completely for road racing or other things of that nature, i wouldnt recomend a HLSD.

[kandyflip445]

I actually said go with a clutch type because of the types of racing you want to be doing. A 2 way would be good for you.

[dj_hype]

fuck it, go welded diff. full time 2 way LSD for like, $15 unless you have a welder and weld it yourself. No overhauls, no worries, except for a piece of the weld breaking off and locking up your rear end, really a bad thing if ur doin 110 on the interstate and slide around a bunch of times until you slam into someone.

but yeah, i went welded diff and i will never go back. welded diff ftw!

[NIK90s13]

Yea, I was waiting on the welded diff sugestion. It all goes back to prefference. Keep reading, reserch is your only answer. Find a part that seems cool to you , check the archives, ask if anybody is running it.

[gotta240]

Why waste money on poly bushings, when all those parts will be replaced later?

Maybe just do the lower arms, and any other part that wont get replaced.

[mmdb]

I had the same goals as you did to tighten up the slop in the rear. Here's the sequence I went through, which I'm happy with the results afterwards:

1. Coilover suspension with adjustable dampening (8kg front, 6kg rear).
Took a lot of the rear play out but still felt loose and sloppy.

2. RUCA (rear upper camber arms), etc with spherical bearings with dust
boots if possible. Got an alignment but the rear still felt unresponsive in
corners, almost like a floating sensation like losing rear grip... terrible
feeling.

3. Front and rear sway bars made by suspension technique. Cost $245 at
summitracing.com. One of the best mods I've done on my suspension. I
didn't think it'd do much because my suspension is so stiff as is, but it
tightened up the rear a lot and makes the car handle much, much more
controllable and intuitive... but I still have a little slop!

4. Solid subframe bushings (requires complete removal of the subframe...
got mine on ebay for 70 bucks shipped... best 70 I've spent!) Once I've
removed the subframe I noticed my OEM ones were basically useless.
This was on a '97 240 so I'd imagine any model prior would suffer only
worse wear. Once I changed these out the rear felt much, much more
solid and I've gotten rid of the slop during daily driving, canyon runs,
etc. Best mod thus far to the suspension. Just to note, some dislike
the noise you get from the rear diff so just be aware of that. My
exhaust is loud enough to drown out any noise... no complaints here.

[xagna]

Isnt it funny that you think that the $70 spent on the Aluminium subframe bushing was a lot more worth than the $900+ spent on the coilovers? I think that way too.

[BEISSEN]

Man thats all the info I was asking for mmdb thanks alot.OK so I am in need of subframe spacer,2 Way LSD "noisey got it"Sway bars "exspensive metal"Non track coilovers 8/6 not the 12/10 ,RUCA's and strut bars.Is that right and that should be a good daily setup and a nice track car as well oh and a allignment.Plus I will have a exhust so I will more then Likely dran the LSD out hahaha.Man thank everyone and I have searched I can look at everyones setup every day but that does not always give you the answer you need.I know they more then Likely did not do that in one day.Now can a LSD be done on your own or only by a shop?

[aznpoopy]

if you want to go mmdb's route, don't get subframe spacers. he got solid subframe bushings. i.e. you need to take off the rear subframe, press out the old bushings and press in the new ones.

it's unlikely you will find a satisfactory set up just by copying someone else's set up. you need to get out there and actually run the events you want to and decide on a balance between street and track for yourself.

[mmdb]

8kg/6kg is pretty killer right now... going anything more I wouldn't say is applicable for a daily driver imho. Btw how do you have 1000 posts and ask simple questions like this? Just curious.

[SochBAT]

Advice is one thing, copying is another.

I'm contemplating my own custom setup that quite possibly would sound retarded as hell to some, and awesome to few.

AGX, GC sleeves, Swift 8/6 kg/mm, Swift Helper 1.5kg/mm, camber plates.

And rubber spring sleeves.

[BEISSEN]

8kg/6kg is pretty killer right now... going anything more I wouldn't say is applicable for a daily driver imho. Btw how do you have 1000 posts and ask simple questions like this? Just curious.
Ok about 2-3 years ago I was in Korea at that time and I had a 1997 240SX.My family took over payments they said we are going to use it so I said ok and I decided that I can trust them "WRONG" car got repoed and I lost it.But at that time there was no market yet like there is now and now I have the chance to get another 240 and so I am asking cus I never had this much to choose from.I started with just a simple intake and exhaust and people were fabing parts.Then the SR came along and that became a craze and then F-Max cam with a KA kit and then greddy was pending on a kit for years and we waited then it came out by that time my 240 was gone.So alot of my post are from simple answers and Replying to Meets and making meets and updateing peps when I was returning from Korea.

[OptionZero]

question: have you ever driven on a track?

[BEISSEN]

question: have you ever driven on a track?

Answer:Yes,1/8 mile only in my 2003 Eclipse GTS 5 Speed.

[OptionZero]

Then here's my advice:
Stop buying stuff for your car.
Buy the driver some track time at an actual track.

A 1/8th mile track is nothing, and you haven't even done it in your 240sx.