best spring rate for street/track/drift

[gunmspec]

i want to know what are the best spring rates for the three types of driving. also what works for inbetween the different types of driving. ex. daily driver/weekend drifter or weekend driverand autocrosser.

[KA24DESOneThree]

There is no best for any one area.

Drifting spring rates need not be any higher than grip spring rates. Autocross spring rates might need to be a little softer because of the bumps usually present in the lots, not to mention it'd be easier to transfer weight.

I daily with 448/336 spring rate and I think it would be absolutely acceptable with DA valving. It works well at the track with wide, grippy tires and is relatively easy to drift. It's fairly good up in the mountains but bumps can be upsetting. I'm sure it'd be pretty proficient on an autocross course as well. The damping adjustability just isn't up to snuff though.

The problem with the valving on most coilovers out there today is that they have to account for big differences in sprung and unsprung weight, cross weights, preload, mechanical grip, and road conditions. Because of this, the valving usually isn't anywhere near exact for your application.

A lot of people, especially in the S-chassis community, seem to think that higher rates are better because they reduce roll. Yes, but the purpose of springs is to hold the car off the ground and tune understeer/oversteer, not reduce roll. Anti-roll bars are for combatting roll, hence the name. Any time you compromise tire traction to reduce roll is a loss.

[gunmspec]

so what does that translate to in Kg/mm and would that be a good spring rate running 18x10 and18x8. i've noticed over the years of watching option vids when they list the cars mods they usually have the 12Kg fr and 10Kg rear. my old car had hks hypers didnt know the spring rate they came with the car.

[bluuuurr]

multiply the weight in kg by 46.. to convert to pounds

[SpeedMonkeyInc]

Are you looking into coilovers? The better question to ask is how well the dampers are matched to the springs. Also, what tires are you running? The stickier your tires the more spring rate you will most likely be happy with. YOu can run 10/9 springs with great damping and it will be fine on the street. You can run 8/6 with poorly matched dampers and life will suck on the street.

[KA24DESOneThree]

Wrong. It's 56lbs/in per kg/mm. Thus 448/336 would be equivalent to 8/6.

I also noticed a lot of 12/10 spring rates but unless you're running R-comps I don't see any need, especially if street driving is factored in. In fact, I don't see the need for 12/10 unless the courses you run are damn near glass smooth.

18x8 is a weaksauce size. Are you FWD? No. So get rid of FWD width and replace it with 18x9 or 18x9.5 with some right proper rubber on there. I'd recommend 8/6 as the spring rate for S13 and 9/7 for S14. Most people don't drive their cars hard enough to warrant any deviation from these standardized rates. Those looking to eke out those extra few tenths will probably want to tune these rates to their own liking.

[supportTHEezln]

. I'd recommend 8/6 as the spring rate for S13 and 9/7 for S14. .

Yes, S14 people like stiffer springs, apparently.

[SpeedMonkeyInc]

Yes, S14 people like stiffer springs, apparently.

Its a heavier car

[drift freaq]

There is no best for any one area.

Drifting spring rates need not be any higher than grip spring rates. Autocross spring rates might need to be a little softer because of the bumps usually present in the lots, not to mention it'd be easier to transfer weight.

I daily with 448/336 spring rate and I think it would be absolutely acceptable with DA valving. It works well at the track with wide, grippy tires and is relatively easy to drift. It's fairly good up in the mountains but bumps can be upsetting. I'm sure it'd be pretty proficient on an autocross course as well. The damping adjustability just isn't up to snuff though.

The problem with the valving on most coilovers out there today is that they have to account for big differences in sprung and unsprung weight, cross weights, preload, mechanical grip, and road conditions. Because of this, the valving usually isn't anywhere near exact for your application.

A lot of people, especially in the S-chassis community, seem to think that higher rates are better because they reduce roll. Yes, but the purpose of springs is to hold the car off the ground and tune understeer/oversteer, not reduce roll. Anti-roll bars are for combatting roll, hence the name. Any time you compromise tire traction to reduce roll is a loss.
could not have said it better myself.