Best Brake Pads?

[Balboa]

Which brake pads offer the best stopping capability? Noise doesn't matter all that much. I've heard great things about EBC Greenstuff pads, but I can only find them for the front (S13). Back in the day when BMW 2002's were popular, Axxis Metal-Matrix were among the most widely-used pads, so they obviosly were good enough for lots of people. What about the Carbon pads from KVR? They cost half as much as the Axxis and EBC pads, but I have never heard of anyone using them. I wish there were only one or two things to choose from, that would make life a WHOLE lot easier.

[jyt747]

EBC brake pads are supposedly one of the best, but there are some who're against them.  You can find them at tirerack.com, but they're relatively pricey.  The same goes for axxis metal masters.  I just put on the KVR from PDM about 2 weeks ago and they've been working great so far.  It's still too early to tell, but there hasn't been anything wrong yet and for the price, they're good enough for me. It also depends on what type of rotors you have as well.  Better rotors will also help your stopping capabilities. Hope this helps

[hurleyboi514]

i got the KVRs and they kick ass! &nbsp;i replaced my pads about 3k miles ago, and at the same time, flushed and refilled my brake fluid with some new high temp stuff from ford. &nbsp;man, talk about some good brakes!! &nbsp;i frequently go race in the mountains and i say this to attest to the quality of the set up. &nbsp;we had a race down the mountain, and we were going full steam. &nbsp;well, near the bottom i still have alot of braking left. &nbsp;well, i get out of the car at the end and check out my brakes b/c they are smoking like mad!! &nbsp;well, my rotors were glowing (i thought this was cool!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> and i still had the ability to brake well so i was happy. &nbsp;after that, ive still had no problems even with frequent abuse. &nbsp;i would highly recommend this set up to anyone that cant afford the Z32 swap.

[guidot]

I talk to a guy on 240sx.org list often and he says for the money, he would go with porterfield pads. &nbsp;He says even on stock rotors they stop realy quick and they have no problems fading under heavy autox braking.

Direct quote from Jeff:
"Now heat 'em up, and like you guys have been saying, it's another story entirely! I doubt I'll put anything BUT the R4S on any car I own that I can get 'em for... They're expensive, yah, but I consider them worth every penny. About 45k and counting on them too, BTW..."
"I ran my first canyon with them about 500 miles after I got the pads, and the all-season tires just weren't up to the brakes anymore. Still a VERY fun run, and much more confidence-inspiring than with the old brakes even with crap tires. I put the Kumho 712s on and waited a few weeks to get the molding off, then ran the same canyon. Wow. Nosebleed indeed. It's gonna' be fun to see what those suckers can do with the Azenis tires on all four corners...."

And there it is...

[tnord]

harsher pads like the metal masters, and i would suspect any pad that needs to be "heated up" will eat your rotors away. this happens because the pad is actually made of a material as hard or harder than the rotors, so they eat away at them. i was told that some of the hawk pads will cause you to need to replace rotors every 2 races (of around 30 laps). and this was from a guy that sold them.

[rotaryknight]

Yea HAWK can eat up your rotors but it depends which HAWK pads you use. &nbsp;Most of the guys on the Rx7Forum swear by HAWK for their FDs.

I was using ENDLESS pads on my FD. &nbsp;Have nothing bad to say about them.

[Balboa]

How much are the Porterfield pads and where can I get them? KVR is started to shine some light =)

[HippoSleek]

Having recently had the pleasure of taking a car w/ R4s's for a spin, I will say those are really good pads. &nbsp;Better than Met. Masters. &nbsp;Stopping was as good as any street Hawk compound (HPS or HP+) and they aren't known for eating rotors. &nbsp;Good pads are worth the money (as I wait on another set of $135 pads to be delivered). &nbsp;The other very important thing is fluid and flushing. &nbsp;

I am one of those who thinks all EBCs tend to be sh!t. &nbsp;Another thing to consider here - what are you going to be doing with the car? &nbsp;There are different pads that serve different duties. &nbsp;There is no one pad that is good at everything.

[crazycuban]

Hipposleek = brake pad jesus. &nbsp;He almost killed me when I took a ride in his car, and he only had brake pads. &nbsp;I thought my guts would fall forward out of my stomach.

[nrcooled]

I upgraded the fronts w/ cross drilled rotors and axxis pads (from Stillen so I overpaid) &nbsp;I feel a difference but nothing major (also resurfaced the rear and new pads) &nbsp;what can I do to get that teeth in the steering wheel effect. &nbsp;My breaks are still questionable and I flushed and refilled when I did my swap. &nbsp;Any ideas? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>

[DSC]

here's a link for whoever was asking
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com

I've never even heard of these pads before but they look great.

Anybody know how they stack up to the kvr carbon kevlar pads?

[guidot]

DSC i don't know about the Kevlar pads, but porterfield makes some serious race pads as well. &nbsp;all kinds of dimensions from porterfield. &nbsp;I have yet to try them, cuz I just did my brakes and I didnt' ask Jeff about them until I already installed! &nbsp;Isn't that always the case?!? &nbsp;When I do my pads again, thats what they will be for sure.
I also was thinking that the kevlar pads would be a harder material than stock rotors so they may eat the rotors away quicker. &nbsp;The porterfields don't, so says Jeff.

[HippoSleek]

My next street pads will be Porterfields. &nbsp;My track pads will remain CarboTechs. &nbsp;Of course, at $100-135 a pair, pads are becoming an issue... <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/sad.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':('> &nbsp;

hey cubano - too bad you couldn't do a ride along w/ me on a track yet (I'm not allowed to have passengers) - you should see those things once they get some real heat in them - especially on the new tires! &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'> &nbsp;It is a wheel biting experience! (most pads stop working at about 450 deg. - mine don't start until over 150 and don't stop until 1250). &nbsp;Too bad I only got about 5,000 mi. out of those things. &nbsp;Right now, my car stops about as well as a '92 Escort (OEM pads and rotors that feel like records that were left in the sun <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> until my new stuff arrives).

nrcooled - Met. Masters don't really have a lot of initial bite. &nbsp;They are a fine daily use pad - but nothing to sing about. &nbsp;Next time get either Hawk HP+ or the R4s's. &nbsp;Either will crush them MM's.

[bbp]

I use Hawk Blues on my race car. &nbsp;You may want to look at some of the street/autox compund to spare your rotors.

[tnord]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bbp @ May 31 2002,3:58)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I use Hawk Blues on my race car. You may want to look at some of the street/autox compund to spare your rotors.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
hawk blues?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>
you replace your rotors a couple times a season don't you?

[HippoSleek]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (tnord @ May 30 2002,11:50)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE"></span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (bbp @ May 31 2002,3:58)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I use Hawk Blues on my race car. You may want to look at some of the street/autox compund to spare your rotors.</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
hawk blues?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'> <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wow.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':0'>
you replace your rotors a couple times a season don't you?</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Rotors are disposable use items. &nbsp;$41 ea. for Brembos delivered to my door <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/biggrin.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':D'>

[adey]

Care to post up where you get those rotors from? <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> I need to change rotors soon too (wearing very thin)... I remember there was one cheap source online somewhere, just can't remember which online shop it was.

Thanks!

[DSC]

http://www.stranoparts.com

[HippoSleek]

Colletti Motor Sports
(937) 312-1533 &nbsp; Brembos are $30 ea. ($11 S&H).

Strano was $52! &nbsp;Colletti is recognized on another board I frequent (full of road racers) as the cheapest place to get rotors.

[bbp]

I have 4 events on Nissan rotors, there is a little warpage but it is tolerable. &nbsp;I need to start carrying a spare set with me.

Hippo- what other board has a bunch of Road racers, got link?

[uuninja]

My bad Hippo! <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/blush.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':blush:'> x2

[silvia240]

hey hippo.. are those blank brembo's or slotted or drilled?

And lets say i get all four rotors, should i use steal braided lines also? and should i use better brake fluid?
What i mean is, is it necessary to do the brake lines and brake fluid? Would i feel a difference?
Cauz my brakes feel like they are grinding everytime i brake even though the pads are still fairly new and i had the rotors resurfaced.

[HippoSleek]

**edit** nothing to see... keep moving

silvia - those are "blanks" that means no slotting or drilling. Unless your lines are shot, steel braided will do little for performance. You *may* feel a slightly firmer pedal - but w/ my old rubber lines, my pedal is plenty firm. You should always use good flluid. The Ford 300 is the best low cost fluid (no kidding!<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> ($3.50/pt); then ATE SuperBlue or SuperGold (I hear Blue is being phased out) ($9-13/pt.); then you get into Motul RBF and the expensive stuff ($12-18/pt.). I would go for the Ford of the ATE - Motul is too much work (it needs to be replaced constantly). Perhaps THE most important thing in a brake job is fully and properly bleeding all the air out of the lines - this fixes SO many brake problems. That is also the difference you will feel the most.

As for grinding, I don't really know what to tell you. Unless your rotors are in bad shape or your pads are a) race grade or b) shot, there should be NO grinding. I'd guess your rotors weren't (or couldn't be) properly resurfaced or there is somthing else a mess in your suspension. A new set of blanks and good pads should stop any brake noise, good pads will allow you to stop faster and more consistently, and good fluid and a bleed will keep the feeling tight and resist fade.

[silvia240]

i am using reybestos brand pads, organic. &nbsp;so should i use semi-metalic pads with those new brembo blanks???

[silvia240]

Oh and last question, what do you all really think is better, just blanks, drilled or slotted?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'>

[DSC]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (silvia240 @ June 04 2002,08:36)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">Oh and last question, what do you all really think is better, just blanks, drilled or slotted?<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/confused.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt='???'></td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
uhh, this one question has the potential to be VERY long so I'll just link to places that cover it and then you pretty much just have to decide for yourself...

30 page debate (http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthread.php?threadid=32327&perpage=15&pagenumber=1)

stop tech (http://stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm)

Brake modifications (http://www.sentra.net/tech/garage/brakes.shtml)

After reading everything I could find, I have deicded to stick with blanks/flats. &nbsp;If I feel they need extra cooling i'll just run some ducts...

[MarketPlayer]

If i were to stick w/ flats, then would the OEM replacement be just a good as brembo flats? &nbsp;I just don't see why the rotr should matter. &nbsp;As i see it the pads should be the most important thing! &nbsp;

-zac

[DSC]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (MarketPlayer @ June 04 2002,9:11)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">If i were to stick w/ flats, then would the OEM replacement be just a good as brembo flats? I just don't see why the rotr should matter. As i see it the pads should be the most important thing!

-zac</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
From a few pages back...
link (http://www.zilvia.net/f/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=2;t=10354)