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View Full Version : RB25DET timeing belt / Water pump / thermostat removal and install


Tenchuu
03-19-2006, 10:00 PM
Ok since i am doing this already and haven't found alot of good write ups here it is as i do it. This is a Series 1 RB25DET. I did this cause my water pump was bent so here it is:

Remove water pump pulley:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1893.jpg

remove the CAS too that is held on by the obvious 3 bolts too

Remove bolt that holds un main pulley (it's a 27):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1910.jpg

Use pulley puller to take the pulley out:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1917.jpg

Remove all small bolts the holes are circled in red (they are T5):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/frontscrews.jpg

take off this little guard:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1920.jpg

MARK the timeing belt in all 3 places. mark the gears and the belt so you can line them up later I labled mine Rt, LT, and B (for bottom):
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/timeingmarks.jpg

Now remove the timeing belt tensioners:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1921.jpg
and the back of the other one:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1922.jpg

now the 12 bolts that hold on the water pump (you can see them in the pics above)

and you should be left with somehting like this, if not cleaner hopefully:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1923.jpg

Thermostat:

un bolt the Oil dip stick and bend down slightly, Bent the metal hose CAREFULLY that is by the bottom left scew, unbolt:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/IMG_1908.jpg


install soon to come....................

drift freaq
03-19-2006, 10:04 PM
good write up tenchuu, this should be faq'd

kouki_s14
03-20-2006, 12:15 AM
i told you it wasnt gonna be hard, you just made it seem harder than it was

gl on the rest of it
and i agree this should be faq'd

henry

anyotherone
03-20-2006, 04:04 PM
thanks for doing this... it will give me a visual aid when I get mine in a week or so.

Siberian Husky
03-20-2006, 11:45 PM
niiiccee *bookmarked*...bump for other RB owners

andrewmp6
03-21-2006, 12:07 AM
yeah add this to faq and damn look at the rust in the water pump hole mine was worse do people dont flush there coolant system

Tenchuu
03-21-2006, 05:08 PM
I think it's more of a sitting thing. this motor had a little over 18,000 milees on it but it is a series 1 so it has been sitting a bit.

Tenchuu
03-28-2006, 04:13 PM
OK welli kinda owned myself by forgetting the camera when i put this back on. and for torque specs and bolt order i used a RB25DET.org writeup here (i take no credit):
Water Pump Replacement

Removal

1. Remove radiator
2. Remove belts
3. Remove water pump pulley
4. Remove timing belt
5. remove tensioner pulley
6. remove idler pulley
7. remove alternator adjustment bar
8. Remove bolts in order shown
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp4.jpg
Installation

1. Apply sealant (Nissan RTV)
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp1.jpg
2. Tighten bolts in the order shown below
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp3.jpg
3. Tighten bolts 8and 9 together with the alternator bar

4. Tighten bolts to specs (FT/LBS)

M6 = 4.6-6.1

M8 = 11.8-15.5

M10 = 23.2-31.1
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/Tenchuuk/wp2.jpg



now to put it back on, i lined up all the marks on the belt and the gears so it was back in place. Next i installed the ideler pulley and torqued to 43-58 (N-M) (the ideler is the one on the rt if you are in fron tof the engine)
Then it was time for the tensioner. you need a hex wrentch to get this thing to go on.
so i made sure that the spring on the back was seated good in it's slot. then made sure that the nut on the end went

(nut)---->( shaped washer---->l shaped washer--->pulley---->bolt


then after i had all that in and i used the hex wrentch to turn it so i had clearance to get the belt on. i ended up takeing the belt off the bottom pulley, looping it around the tensioners, then slideing it back onto the bottom gears and le tit go. Now i torqued that nut down to .43-58 (N-M) also. then it was a matter of putting on everything the same way it came off (block off plate, then front shielding, then bottom pulley, then upper plate and lastly the CAS and water pump pulley.)

I will let everyone know if this works once i start it up and see. i hope it does and will find out soon.

Tenchuu
04-02-2006, 08:59 PM
It runs great this works. i win at the timeing belt/water pump replacement.