SR Injectors...please help, VERY frustrated.

[Keith240]

So yesterday I was driving my friend to work and when I stopped to drop him off my car started pouring out a blue/white smoke and the car started to idle really rough. Couldnt drive the car anywhere so we parked it and pulled the plugs. #3 cylinder plus was doused in gas. I thought it could be a bad coilpack so I switched the #2 and #3 cylinder packs around with the same result, #3 plug covered in gas. After thinking about the possibilites and talking to a few shops we diagnosed it as a bad injector. Got a brand new one this morning, cranked over the engine to get the gas out of the cylinder and poped it in. Car still runs the same, lots of smoke, smells like gas. Pulled all the plugs, #3 still covered in gas. So I get new plugs, gapped, crank over the engine pop the plugs in, same result. So I dry it off and when I turn the engine over again I hear a clanking/grinding noise and it wont turn over, try again and it turns on but runs worse then before, very rough idle, dies, lots of smoke. I have no ideas. Sorry if some of this doesnt make sense I am very frustrated right now. Thanks for any input.

[drifter808]

when you put in the new injector did you replace the o-ring? i know a bad o-ring can cause those kind of problems.

[Keith240]

Yes I replaced the O-rings with brand new ones. I also tried putting the brand new ones on my old injector and the car runs exactly the same.

[Keith240]

UPDATE: Car started to run fine for awhile, wouldnt let me go above 2500, probably because my MAF is bad. Still had a little smoke coming out of the exhaust, but for whatever reason it is running like crap again. I got an injector tester to make sure it is getting correct power, which it is. I also checked for spark in the 3rd cylinder, and it is getting plenty. I'm running out of ideas.

[NemeGuero]

Check the CAS while you're at it.

[Keith240]

Check the CAS while you're at it.
I searched around the forums a little and it sounds like this may be my problem, could this cause the engine to dump fuel into 1 cylinder? Or would it be more likely that it is the MAF? Also what am I looking for when I open the CAS up? Thanks for the input you guys.

[NemeGuero]

The FSM should have your info on how to check if it's healthy or not.
download the FSM at
www.zeroyon.com

Don't know specifics. I've never dealt with SR.. just heard the issue.
I had a similar problem with my KA dumping fuel into the cylinders. I thought it was injectors but it was something on the dizzy that wasn't plugged in. Some kind of CAS sensor too.

Good luck.

[aznpoopy]

make sure you are installing your injectors properly. its very easy to crush the o-rings during installation, even if they are brand new.

don't forget the oil change as well... it's going to be extremely thin from all the gas. i would change it maybe after 100 miles after you've gotten her running again. clean it out.

[1mns13]

I agree. thin oil is great for spinning a bearing.

[smithers584]

dude if you MAFS is sending incorrect voltage to your ecu, it will go into a fail safe mode that wont let your car go above 2400 rpms. if you have this condition why dont you change that? and yes, a bad maf could definately cause air/fuel problems, its the primary for the ecu, then the TPS. thats per FSM, hope it helps.

[Keith240]

dude if you MAFS is sending incorrect voltage to your ecu, it will go into a fail safe mode that wont let your car go above 2400 rpms. if you have this condition why dont you change that? and yes, a bad maf could definately cause air/fuel problems, its the primary for the ecu, then the TPS. thats per FSM, hope it helps.

Well when the car is running like crap and dumping fuel into the third cylinder I can rev it up all the way to redline. Only the one time my car started and ran normally I couldnt get it passed 2,500. So I guess what Im getting at is would the MAf cause the engine to dump fuel into only 1 cylinder for some reason, or is it more likely that it is the CAS or something? I opened up the CAS today and the disk wasnt warped and it looked clean, should I try resetting my timing, and is it possible that my CAS just went bad and is cause the engine to dump fuel into 1 cylinder? Thanks for the help guys.

[aznpoopy]

Well when the car is running like crap and dumping fuel into the third cylinder I can rev it up all the way to redline. Only the one time my car started and ran normally I couldnt get it passed 2,500. So I guess what Im getting at is would the MAf cause the engine to dump fuel into only 1 cylinder for some reason, or is it more likely that it is the CAS or something? I opened up the CAS today and the disk wasnt warped and it looked clean, should I try resetting my timing, and is it possible that my CAS just went bad and is cause the engine to dump fuel into 1 cylinder? Thanks for the help guys.

how did you install that one injector...?

[smithers584]

Well when the car is running like crap and dumping fuel into the third cylinder I can rev it up all the way to redline. Only the one time my car started and ran normally I couldnt get it passed 2,500. So I guess what Im getting at is would the MAf cause the engine to dump fuel into only 1 cylinder for some reason, or is it more likely that it is the CAS or something? I opened up the CAS today and the disk wasnt warped and it looked clean, should I try resetting my timing, and is it possible that my CAS just went bad and is cause the engine to dump fuel into 1 cylinder? Thanks for the help guys.

MAFS will change the amount of fuel as a total, not just to one cylinder. If you are definately getting more in one cylinder, then you need to look towards the CAS and the ECU. And yes, the CAS could be bad even though it looks good, due to the circuitry inside it that sends pulses to your ecu, telling it piston position, signals to control fuel injectoin, ignition timing, ect..

[NemeGuero]

MAFS will change the amount of fuel as a total, not just to one cylinder. If you are definately getting more in one cylinder, then you need to look towards the CAS and the ECU. And yes, the CAS could be bad even though it looks good, due to the circuitry inside it that sends pulses to your ecu, telling it piston position, signals to control fuel injectoin, ignition timing, ect..

Which is why I suggested he check it per FSM specifications...
and even provided the link to DOWNLOAD and FSM, had he not had one.

[smithers584]

my post was just to back yours up and elaborate (spelling?) a little.

[NemeGuero]

Yah, I just wish HE would have read it.. and done it.

lol

[Keith240]

Yah, I just wish HE would have read it.. and done it.

lol

I did download it and read it, I just wanted to do some research and narrow down the possibilities before I invested in a part, these things are fairly pricey. But after searching around a bunch and reading the FSM I've decided that the CAS is the problem. Now do I have to get one specifically for the JDM SR20 or is there an equivelent that I can pull off another Nissan/Infiniti? Thanks for the help.

[g2ic02]

i don' think that the cas is your problem. It wouldn't cause you car to run rich in only one cylinder. It only tells the computer when the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the intake stroke. It is something related to cylinder #1. I would put my bet on it being a spark related issue that the original place miss diagnosed. What ever you do when you check for spark ground the spark plug. If you just let the spark plug arc across itself you may ruin the coil pack. Go get a spark tester from an auto store.

[Keith240]

i don' think that the cas is your problem. It wouldn't cause you car to run rich in only one cylinder. It only tells the computer when the #1 cylinder is at TDC on the intake stroke. It is something related to cylinder #1. I would put my bet on it being a spark related issue that the original place miss diagnosed. What ever you do when you check for spark ground the spark plug. If you just let the spark plug arc across itself you may ruin the coil pack. Go get a spark tester from an auto store.

Hmmm, good info, it's got me thinking a little more. Any other thoughts on what it might be?

[NemeGuero]

I did download it and read it, I just wanted to do some research and narrow down the possibilities before I invested in a part, these things are fairly pricey. But after searching around a bunch and reading the FSM I've decided that the CAS is the problem. Now do I have to get one specifically for the JDM SR20 or is there an equivelent that I can pull off another Nissan/Infiniti? Thanks for the help.


It doesn't cost to test the CAS... you just need a multimeter.. as it would tell you.. if you read the section... on the CAS...

[Keith240]

*EDIT* nevermind,found it

[Keith240]

Ok, somewhat of an update. I got a multimeter yesterday and pulled out the CAS this morning. Tested the voltage and everything is to spec. I put it back in correctly according to phase2motortrend, an redid timing. Now whenever I start the car is its almost normal, a little rough but I suspect this is because it's running real rich. There is blueish/whitish smoke coming out of the exhaust still, but not nearly as much. If I look into the muffler I can see condensation building, which I think is unburnt gas. Also after I start it up it is normal for about 2 seconds then I hear this quick grinding noise, doesnt affect the RPM's or anything, just a concern. Sometimes the car lets me rev over 2500, but other times not. What should my next course of action be? MAFS? I fell I am so close to getting her back on the road...

[MELLO*SOS]

the 2500 safety limit is anytime the MAF is bad or disconnected. Perhaps the wiring to your maf is loose, corroded or damaged I would check that out. When you pull the #3 plug is it still doused in fuel? GL with your problem

[NemeGuero]

What he said ^^.

Or just try to clean the connector.

there's a section in that FSM about the MAFS too.. hehe

[smithers584]

i think you should check out the section in the FSM that relates to the MAFS.

(just giving you shit)
definately, i disconnected mine one time and there was a shitload of corrosion on the connector somehow. i have no idea how it corroded that quick or what caused it.

[Keith240]

None of the spark plugs are doused in fuel now, the car runs good besides the 2500RPM limit. I forgot to add that I tested the MAFS voltage and it was about .5V higher then spec at idle and at 2500RPM. Does this mean I need a new MAFS?

[NemeGuero]

What actually did you change?

And yes, probably need a new MAFS.

[Keith240]

What actually did you change?

And yes, probably need a new MAFS.

Weird thing is, I didn't change anything. The car is still using everything that was on it when it broke down. It's got my mind running in circles...

[NemeGuero]

Probably when you took out the CAS.. put it back in the right way after.. or something..

Yah, replace that MAF and let us know what happens.

[smithers584]

did you let the engine warm up before you tested the MAFS?

[Keith240]

did you let the engine warm up before you tested the MAFS?

Yeah I did. I put my friends MAFS that he said works in my car today and it still will only go to 2500. Who knows if it's working though since it's been sitting out in the weather in his car that isnt running. I have a brand new MAFS coming tomorrow. The car is just running rich, plugs get carbon buildup on them and exhaust smells of gas. Weird thing is I reset the ECU and got a code 55. Could the O2 sensor be adding/causing the problem too?

[NemeGuero]

If its still doing the same thing with a good MAF in.. its not the MAF, but something in the MAF signal to the ECU. Try swapping out ECU's or following the wiring to see if you can spot any shorts.

[hellion240sx]

the tps could be your 2500rpm problem. my car had a similar problem when i first got it back after the swap. i couldn't go anywhere. we changed out the maf thinking it was that but he said it turned out to be the tps.

[NemeGuero]

He checked the TPS... or so he says.

[Keith240]

He checked the TPS... or so he says.

I havent checked it actually. Should I test/replace this before an O2 sensor?

[Keith240]

Ok. This morning I replaced my MAF clip and put my old MAF back in and the car will rev passed 2500. So I decide to take it around the block. As soon as I start going a bunch of white smoke comes pouring out of the exhaust, so I get it back to my house and park it. I smell the smoke and it doesnt smell like gas at all, I've never smelt anything like it. Also when I was going around the block I tried to get on it and the turbo would spool realy loud but the car just didnt have any get up and go. It would just slowly accelerate and puor out smoke. I did a compression test and it was 178-180 on all 4 cylinders. I'm really getting worried about my car, but at the same time I feel I am really close to fixing it. Please help.

[smithers584]

dude so many things could be causing the smoke. when is the last time you changed your pcv valve. if you pull that out you should be able to shake it and hear a ball banging around in there. if not its bad. just replace it, 4 bucks at autozone, 19mm. thats the only thing i have ever had cause that much smoke come out of my exhaust. i think my 02 sensor is bad, but i am spitting out black smoke. 02 sensor is supposed to read 3-1000 ohms between pins a and c, per fsm. mine is reading open, so i am going to change it.

[smithers584]

what are you using to tune?

[Keith240]

what are you using to tune?

To tune what? I don't have an SAFC or any type of piggyback computer if thats what you mean.

[Keith240]

So I just went to test the car again and it ran pretty well, had more power and wasnt putting out very much smoke at all. Turned it off, check out the engine and decided I would take a little drive. Started the car and it runs like it did at first, real shaky idle and feels like crap. Great. I pull the 3rd spark plug and guess what? Doused in fuel. Any takers?

[smithers584]

this problems got me stumped man. i have a simliar problem i am trying to work out right now. have you tried swapping out ecu's yet? have you ohmed out your 02 like suggested in the FSM? check your knock sensor as well, if thats messed up it will retart your timing. something intermitent that is going to be a pain in the ass to find. i finally found my 02 bad, just took it out and i have been driving my car like that for a day to w/ no problems other than running a little rich and a nice smell in the car from the exhaust pooring out the hole. not 100 percent convinced that it will fix it when i get my new one though. take it out and then drive, see what happens.

[smithers584]

02 should not cause extra gas in one cylinder though. have tried swapping just that one coilpack? or you could swap it to like the 1 cylinder and see if the problem moves.

[Keith240]

02 should not cause extra gas in one cylinder though. have tried swapping just that one coilpack? or you could swap it to like the 1 cylinder and see if the problem moves.

I havent tried swapping out ECU's, I dont want to buy one from someone on here because if it doesnt fix my problem I'm still screwed, and Im out a bunch of money. But I'm thinking thats probably what it is at this point, cant think of alot of other things that would cause it to dump fuel into one cylinder that I havent check yet. I already tried swapping the number 2 and 3 coilpacks and when I did the 3rd cylinder was still flooded with gas. I checked the O2 sensor this morning, it was within spec. I'll check the knock sensor, but do you think that could flood one cylinder with gas? Thanks for all the help, please keep it coming.

[smithers584]

you are right, a knock sensor should not cause it to flood one cylinder, but it would explain the car running like shit because it retards the timing to 20 degrees btdc i believe. that is supposed to shoot between 500-600 kohms i believe. i am running into a similar problem, so i have already tried all of this. but mine is completely intermittent. what about your buddy that you swapped your MAFS with, he doesnt have an ECU? check power to your number 3 cylinder coil pack, maybe it has a bad ground and is not receiving power or maybe wires are shorted. this is all just on a limb, sounds like you have tried everything else, but really the ECU is the only component left that would cause this problem.

[Keith240]

you are right, a knock sensor should not cause it to flood one cylinder, but it would explain the car running like shit because it retards the timing to 20 degrees btdc i believe. that is supposed to shoot between 500-600 kohms i believe. i am running into a similar problem, so i have already tried all of this. but mine is completely intermittent. what about your buddy that you swapped your MAFS with, he doesnt have an ECU? check power to your number 3 cylinder coil pack, maybe it has a bad ground and is not receiving power or maybe wires are shorted. this is all just on a limb, sounds like you have tried everything else, but really the ECU is the only component left that would cause this problem.

I'll try the knock sensor tomorrow, I am not home right now. My buddy with the MAFS has an ECU, but it is reprogramed for Z32 MAF, injectors, etc, so it won't work on my car. I'll also try the power and ground for the #3 coilpack. Looks like I might just have to go get it towed into town and have a shop run a diagnostic on it. Do you think they would be able to pinpoint the problem?

[HootAuto]

Don't take it to just any shop, they need to know the SR motors...it's either a leaking injector, bad o-ring on an injector or a bad coilpack (more than likely). Let me know how it goes, I think I might have an upcoming problem like that with mine....running rich!

[Keith240]

Don't take it to just any shop, they need to know the SR motors...it's either a leaking injector, bad o-ring on an injector or a bad coilpack (more than likely). Let me know how it goes, I think I might have an upcoming problem like that with mine....running rich!

Well it cant be a leaking injector or O-ring because I got a brand new injector and O-rings and tried the rings on both injectors. Guess I'll call around tomorrow and see what shops know SR's.

[HootAuto]

Ever crushed an O-ring? My S14 240 had a #4 injector leak so I replaced the O-ring and it still leaked. Asked someone what could be wrong, pulled the injector again and I ruined the o-ring when I installed it! They are pretty fragile!! I doubt this is your problem though, but it's still something worth checking since it's free.

[Keith240]

Ever crushed an O-ring? My S14 240 had a #4 injector leak so I replaced the O-ring and it still leaked. Asked someone what could be wrong, pulled the injector again and I ruined the o-ring when I installed it! They are pretty fragile!! I doubt this is your problem though, but it's still something worth checking since it's free.

Yeah I've check it, also tried putting them on my old injector but no matter what I did the car still ran exactly the same.

[HootAuto]

Damn dude, don't know what to tell ya then....gave my $.02 ask someone who is very knowledgable in the SR ways, they might have some insight for ya

[white smoke]

I'm thinking this is a wiring problem as its so intermittemt.
1st thing id do is check to make sure that none of the coil pack wiring is grounding out behind the motor. This happens allot since its so tight back there. 2nd thing would be the injector driver from the ECU. Check and make sure that it is giving the pulses when it should and not stuck open.

No sensor is going to give you that much fuel in one cylinder and none in any others.

Who did the wiring and install?

[Keith240]

I'm thinking this is a wiring problem as its so intermittemt.
1st thing id do is check to make sure that none of the coil pack wiring is grounding out behind the motor. This happens allot since its so tight back there. 2nd thing would be the injector driver from the ECU. Check and make sure that it is giving the pulses when it should and not stuck open.

No sensor is going to give you that much fuel in one cylinder and none in any others.

Who did the wiring and install?

The guy I bought the car from did all the wiring, he has been doing it since 1997 or so. The car has been running great for a year and just randomly took a crap on me. I'll check out the grounds and check in the FSM for injector specs and test them out too when I go home, and when it stops raining. I really wish I could test another ECU in it. If anyone around Santa Cruz/San Jose wants to let me borrow one I would really appriciate it, I'll take you out to lunch or something, ha. Let me know guys, keep the good info coming.

[aznpoopy]

Yeah I've check it, also tried putting them on my old injector but no matter what I did the car still ran exactly the same.

how exactly are you installing them?

you have to lube them up with motor oil and then twist side by side while applying pressure with your hand only. you should feel a very slight snap' when the o-ring seats into the groove. if you don't feel it 'snap' into place and it's all the way in, you've probably crushed the o-ring.

torqueing them down using the caps and screws is a sure fire way to destroy even a brand new o-ring.

[Keith240]

how exactly are you installing them?

you have to lube them up with motor oil and then twist side by side while applying pressure with your hand only. you should feel a very slight snap' when the o-ring seats into the groove. if you don't feel it 'snap' into place and it's all the way in, you've probably crushed the o-ring.

torqueing them down using the caps and screws is a sure fire way to destroy even a brand new o-ring.

I did exactly what you described, lubed the rings up with oil and slowly eased them in until the clicked into place.

[dacalac]

I'm having the exact same problem that you are! The weird thing is that it only seems to happen AFTER the car warms up.

[smithers584]

same for me as well, only when the motor is warm, kinda makes me think to try the engine coolant temp sensor, (im tired and do not remember if we discussed this already and i am too aggrivated to look right now). if this were the case, the sensor would tell the ecu to dump more fuel in thinking it was cold when it was actually warm. i know for 100% fact my o2 is bad, but no telling if that would fix it until a couple of days when i get my hands on one. please be sure to post if you fix yours, both of you.

[Keith240]

same for me as well, only when the motor is warm, kinda makes me think to try the engine coolant temp sensor, (im tired and do not remember if we discussed this already and i am too aggrivated to look right now). if this were the case, the sensor would tell the ecu to dump more fuel in thinking it was cold when it was actually warm. i know for 100% fact my o2 is bad, but no telling if that would fix it until a couple of days when i get my hands on one. please be sure to post if you fix yours, both of you.

See the problem is that neither of these sensors would cause the ECU to dump fuel into only one of the cylinders, they control all of them as a whole which makes me think the problem is stemming from the ECU.

[aznpoopy]

hmmm... have you checked the wiring to the problem injector? i've heard of a few cases where the wiring to an injector got grounded out causing it to dump fuel non stop.

[Keith240]

hmmm... have you checked the wiring to the problem injector? i've heard of a few cases where the wiring to an injector got grounded out causing it to dump fuel non stop.

Yeah I've checked it with a light you plug into the harness and it blinks, meaning the injector is getting a proper signal. It's weird because it will start and run pretty good sometimes and others it will dump fuel.

[nivram]

I'm a SR newb.....but just a thought here. If everything is checking out. You might want to try swapping out the fuel injector. Maybe the tip is craked or its just not retaining fuel pressure. It's very odd that only one cylinder is giving you problems.

Just my .02 as you are trying to eliminate things.

[smithers584]

ok well since you are just a newb, i am not going to flame you. but if you would have read the entire first page of this thread you would know that he has already done it, and checked it, and checked it.

[smithers584]

keith240, ive tried everyting. its all good. car runs shitty, im throwing all logic out the window because i just want the car fixed. if the 02 works, then great, i dont care why. hahaha im so frustrated, i think we need to start thinking outside the box and away from what theory tells us and start trying off the wall ideas. you are right though, i have not tried an ecu and maybe that is the prob.

[Steve_S14]

i have been having the EXACT same problem as you, the car runs, but very poorly,

its not the injectors or the TPS, i know my coilpacks have cracks on the side, so i have to change those to eliminate them, but i think its a bad wiring job that is causing problems, it seems the hacks that installed the SR for the previous owner had no idea what they were doing. im going to have that verified by an sr professional here in montreal, but if i find out the problem ill keep you informed

[dacalac]

Ahh I said screw it and took it over to the gents at R&D Factory (http://www.rndfactory.com) and see what they could come up with. Once they give me a call back I will post up here and see if that might help everyone else. I'm leaning towards an O2 sensor problem though.

mysterious problems:rl:

[smithers584]

yeah please post, im in the middle of South Carolina, not to many knowledgeable tuners around here as you could probably imagine.

[dacalac]

got a call from Ed over at R&D Factory and he said that the problem lied in an injector AND a bad FPR! I didn't have time to go over everything with him and my phone kept cutting in and out of signal but I'm heading down there tomorrow (3/29) night to pick up the car. If I hear anything before then I'll update.

edit - I just noticed my title says "Leaky Injector" LOL! :P

[Keith240]

Ok guys, update. My buddy let me borrow this nifty little tool. Basically you unplug your injector and plugs this into the injector clip. It has a light on it that will flash if the injector is working correctly. I tested it with all the injector clips and this is what I came up with. When the car is in the "ON" position, the car isnt on but the accessories and stuff like that are, all of the injectors show no signal, which is normal besides the #3 which is shining bright, which means it is getting a constant signal. And when I started the car all the injectors flashed pretty dull except the #3 which was flashing really bright which means that its getting a stronger signal, which translates into more fuel. Do you guys think this is a wiring problem that somehow occured by just driving around or do you think the ECU tweaked and went bad randomly? Is there anyway a shop can just test an ECU to tell if it's bad?

[HootAuto]

Find the pin in the ECU that goes to that specific injector signal and hook up a multi-meter or a test light and turn the key to the on position and see if the light come on. If it does, replace the ecu. If not, start tracking down the wiring and look for broken/stripped/shorting wires. Pretty sure it would be the ECU though....Good Luck!!

[HootAuto]

btw, that nifty tool is called a noid light and you can get em for like $5 a peice at Auto Zone

[Keith240]

I tried what you suggested Hoot and the light came on, but it was dim, I think this is cause I had a shitty ground and I was working fast because it is getting dark. So does this mean I need a new ECU then? I tried the light in all of the injectors again and got the same result, the #3 lighting up.

[Keith240]

Ok, so today I started pulling apart the wiring to the injectors. I left the car in the on position with the noid in the #3 plug. I discovered if I pushed the wires toward the main harness a little the light would go off, and if I pulled them slightly the light would come back on. I didnt get the where all the connections were because I had to leave but I did take the car for a little drive because the light wouldnt come back on. It drove pretty well besides an abnormal amount of backfiring and I also noticed it doesnt pull very hard. It boosts to 10PSI which is what it was at before but it just doesnt feel like it used to. Also when I went out for the drive the car put out a little blue smoke then as I drove a little more stopped and didnt smoke anymore after that. When I got back I plugged the noid into the #2 plug and turned the car on. As I revved it up it the light blinked brighter and was crisp. I plugged it into the #3 cylinder and tried the same thing. The light seemed to be a little brighter then #2 and also seemed a little more frantic. I pulling apart the harness tomorrow, any suggestions?

[HootAuto]

Recheck it at the ECU first, make sure you have good ground for your test light. You may also want to use like a T-Pin to plug into the back of the connector going into the ECU (or you could use a sewing needle/paper clip). This will ensure you're getting a good reading. If it is still dim, make sure the ECU is grounded properly. If you think its grounded well, but the light is still dim, replace it.

Someone let me know if this is incorrect information, don't wanna be giving information thats wrong!!

[Keith240]

I tested injectors again using the noid light this morning. For some reason #3 looked exactly like the others so I decided to go for a drive. Still doesnt have power like it used to it has a little pull when it hits full boost then it just like, blah, still pulls, but not hard at all. Turbo spools pretty loud, louder then I remember it. Pulled the plugs and everything looked normal. Checked for any loose charge piping, vaccum leaks, nothing. Could this still be an ECU problem, turbo problem? Car doesnt smoke anymore, it runs really good despite the lack of power. Any ideas?

[xcye12]

I tested injectors again using the noid light this morning. For some reason #3 looked exactly like the others so I decided to go for a drive. Still doesnt have power like it used to it has a little pull when it hits full boost then it just like, blah, still pulls, but not hard at all. Turbo spools pretty loud, louder then I remember it. Pulled the plugs and everything looked normal. Checked for any loose charge piping, vaccum leaks, nothing. Could this still be an ECU problem, turbo problem? Car doesnt smoke anymore, it runs really good despite the lack of power. Any ideas?
It seems to me your timing is a little retarded after you put the CAS back on.

BTW, SR20 ECU opens an injector by grounding it signal wire. The red wires connecting to injectors are always hot once the key is on. you must have a broke signal wire at your #3 injector which shorts to ground occasionally.

[revolutionz_s13]

ok, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead....

i am having the same problems, except i have a 1995 KA24DE in my 92 coupe, and its my #2 cylinder that is dumping fuel. I currently am using sr20 370cc injectors, detuned witha safc2.
as far as i can tell from tracing wires, everything seems to be good. how exactly would i meter my ecu to tell if thats the problem? i have metered all my injectors, and they all read 11.9ohms. i have replaced the o-rings on the injector also. It seems to be intermittent, if i let the car sit for awhile, its runs fine for a bit when i start it. after a bit, it will start flooding again. i have tried: new injector, checking the wiring, checking the MAF, new cap & rotor, checked for spark, new plugs, checked the wiring, cleaned the injectors.....im out of ideas. any help would be appreciated.

[revolutionz_s13]

BUMP!! need some ideas here guys.....