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GINGER#1
03-04-2006, 04:03 PM
how do you wire a kill switch, does anyone have a step by step detailed instructions?

g6civcx
03-04-2006, 05:10 PM
There are many ways to mount it. It really depends on what you're looking for. Check out this link to get some ideas on how others do it: http://www.miata.net/garage/killswitch.html

I know it's for Miatas, but the concept is the same. It just depends on where you want to mount it and which wire you want to tap into.

BlackSilEighty
03-04-2006, 07:46 PM
What sort of switch would I use if I were to make a kill switch out of the fuel pump or ignition circuit? Amperage...where would I wire into..etc. Could I use a standard switch? The kind that comes with foglamps etc? 10 guage wire?

IAM_SO_sLOw
03-04-2006, 07:54 PM
just get locate the fuel pump wire coming out of the ecu.. cut it and then extended both ends to where ever you want to hide the kill switch solder on a switch and your done =)

im pretty sure you can use a standard switch... i used a random small radio shack toggle one....and then i accidently broken it =*( and found a switch in the junkyard off a alarm or something and just used that...i used 14 gauge wire i belive =)

TheTimanator
03-04-2006, 07:59 PM
http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=battery+switch&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp
there's a start. They have many different types. I've perosnally been looking at the Painless Wiring ones...

As far as wiring...thats extremely simple but depends on which switch you buy.

BlackSilEighty
03-04-2006, 10:40 PM
This is a pain in the ass. Why can't thieves just quit stealing my stuff. I'll look into something. Might try and cook something up myself.

BlackSilEighty
03-04-2006, 10:46 PM
BTW Tim, are you selling the Rikens now that you bought those SSR's? If you'd sell them as pairs I may buy a pair. I have a pair of them already and it would give me a whole set that way. TC (civhbproject on cardomain) is looking for meshies right now too.

TheTimanator
03-05-2006, 12:22 AM
just get locate the fuel pump wire coming out of the ecu.. cut it and then extended both ends to where ever you want to hide the kill switch solder on a switch and your done =)

im pretty sure you can use a standard switch... i used a random small radio shack toggle one....and then i accidently broken it =*( and found a switch in the junkyard off a alarm or something and just used that...i used 14 gauge wire i belive =)
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1099324851.gif
so you can put a switch inline with Pin 104- Fuel Pump Realy output for a fuel kill switch, correct? What you use for an igntion kill switch?

g6civcx
03-05-2006, 08:59 AM
The easiest way is to install one on the negative terminal of the battery. Shut it off when you leave and no electrical current will go to the car.

Another easy way is to tap into the clutch interlock circuitry. The clutch has to be pushed in to close a switch in order to run the starter. Tap into that and wire in your own switch.

BlackSilEighty
03-05-2006, 10:28 AM
Yeah but that will reset all your crap everyday. That's probably the best way but we shold think up a convenient way. I was thinking the other day about a "boot" that clips under the gas pedal keeping it from being able to be pressed. You just slap it on when you get home from work or wherever and when you leave you just unlock it with a key and pull it off...

g6civcx
03-05-2006, 11:29 AM
They have that. You lock it against the steering wheel and you can't drive the car.

BlackSilEighty
03-05-2006, 11:36 AM
I mean for the gas pedal though. It would make more sense to me at least. Cars don't move very fast if you can't push the gas pedal in. You can't engage the clutch either. You would have an extremely slow getaway if you stole an automatic. I'm pretty sure the cops would pull them over for going 5mph in a 45mph zone, lol.

fliprayzin240sx
03-05-2006, 11:57 AM
The clutch interlock relay is a good measure. I've been using this switch ever since I bought the car. Personally tho, with all the shiet thats been going on, dont think its enough. You can still bypassing this switch by push starting the car. I'm in the process of getting a detachable wheel hub where I can toss the wheel in the trunk, while making sure that the interior trunk release is disabled. And no, you cant get the wheel from the back seat, I got enough shiet in the backseat and tooblbox/sub in the trunk. Will prolly do a fuel pump switch for good measure, just gotta figure out where to hide it.

IAM_SO_sLOw
03-05-2006, 01:06 PM
http://www.sequence-garage.com/forums/uploads/post-13-1099324851.gif
so you can put a switch inline with Pin 104- Fuel Pump Realy output for a fuel kill switch, correct? What you use for an igntion kill switch?

yeah that would be the one...thats for a sr right? i had it for my ka i remember the wires being different........my ignition kill switch is my alarm lol...i have a normal alarm but now im putting in a viper 791vx =) 2-way!! yay!!

undercoverdjay
03-15-2006, 11:07 AM
The easiest way is to install one on the negative terminal of the battery. Shut it off when you leave and no electrical current will go to the car.

Another easy way is to tap into the clutch interlock circuitry. The clutch has to be pushed in to close a switch in order to run the starter. Tap into that and wire in your own switch.

He's got it, its simple, behind the clutch there is blue wire clip with two wires cut those, extend them with wire of similar guage to a switch and you got it. I did this same thing with my car, extended the wires to a radioshack rocker switch, dremeled a hole into the back of the ashtray thats supposed to be for the backseat passengers, now all I have to do is open the ashtray, run my fingers in there to flip the switch, and you can try turning that key till the cows come home, its not starting. If you need more of an explaination you can send me a PM

BlackSilEighty
03-15-2006, 11:24 AM
Is this method also usable for an automatic?

TheTimanator
03-15-2006, 06:14 PM
Is this method also usable for an automatic?
no, this method puts a switch in line with the clutch pedal switch that allows you to start the car...the switch is there so you don't accendentally start it in gear. You don't have an auto do you?

I'm acutally more concerned about someone steeling parts off the car than the actually car...

ledzeppelin240
03-15-2006, 10:26 PM
For automatic or manual:

-Locate BLK-WHT wire coming out of ignition switch.
-Install a relay with 30 &87a in series with BLK-WHT wire.
-run 85 to switched power and 86 to ground.

That is a relayed starter kill switch. Personally I think it is better to use a relay cause then you only have to run a one wire system with the switch which can be a lot smaller wiring running up to a smaller switch.

Munch
03-16-2006, 12:34 PM
Yeah but that will reset all your crap everyday. That's probably the best way but we shold think up a convenient way. I was thinking the other day about a "boot" that clips under the gas pedal keeping it from being able to be pressed. You just slap it on when you get home from work or wherever and when you leave you just unlock it with a key and pull it off...

Kragen sells something similiar, it actually goes on either the brake pedal or the clutch pedal. Pretty much makes it so u cant move em.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3168&mfrcode=LAW&mfrpartnumber=1640

Might wanna look into that if u havent already.

Theres a pic of it actually on the pedal here.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?categorycode=3168&mfrcode=LAW&mfrpartnumber=1740

koukidough
03-16-2006, 01:20 PM
I got two of those autolocks. 1 for brake pedal and one for clutch. Works great with an addition of 2 kill switches

Phre0nBurn
03-16-2006, 05:16 PM
Hey, I dont think its been said, but i didnt feel like reading through all of the posts, but yea...
As someone mentioned before, the switch on the clutch...
You can use a relay to tap into that...
Take out your cigarette lighter housing...
Disconnect all wires that go to it, and make sure that when it is in its place, it isnt grounded out, and it cant be grounded out...
There are 2 wires on it, 1 positive, and one negative... If you make one constant power, and the other out to the relay, then you will have to insert the lighter, and press it in, to make the link, and start the vehicle...
upsides to this are that you can also wire other things to it, just make sure they dont need constant power, like a fuel pump, just temporary to start the vehicle...
and you can take the lighter out, and put it in your pocket when you get out!
:-D

another thing to do is wire into something else already in the vehicle, like say a turn signal, or brake light, headlight, dome light, etc...
Put the lighter in, turn your left turn signal on, hold the brake, turn your high beams on, and start the car, haha, its all up to you...

Another thing, if you want to get extra crazy, is you can look into biometric pads... i know its kinda overboard, but some places arent that bad on pricing (i mean, you can buy a biometric wall safe for like $250), and then it scans, and then sends a signal to a relay that could control a number of things...

then they will have to cut your finger off to steal your car...

or how about this...
get a frequency analyzer, and make it read out at a certain frequency to a signal voltage output, and then you can burn a clip of that frequency to a cd, and then you have to play a cd to get it to send power and start the car... haha
ok, thats overboard, but there are millions of things to do...
take a week off work, get a few cased of red bull, and some energy pills off the net that have ephedrine in em, about 4 miles of wire, some industrial bags of connectors and things, like 50 relays and switches, and just tweek out and go at it, then no one could steal your car...
haha
ok, im done joking...
slap me...

swwifty
03-16-2006, 06:44 PM
Hey, I dont think its been said, but i didnt feel like reading through all of the posts, but yea...
As someone mentioned before, the switch on the clutch...
You can use a relay to tap into that...
Take out your cigarette lighter housing...
Disconnect all wires that go to it, and make sure that when it is in its place, it isnt grounded out, and it cant be grounded out...
There are 2 wires on it, 1 positive, and one negative... If you make one constant power, and the other out to the relay, then you will have to insert the lighter, and press it in, to make the link, and start the vehicle...
upsides to this are that you can also wire other things to it, just make sure they dont need constant power, like a fuel pump, just temporary to start the vehicle...
and you can take the lighter out, and put it in your pocket when you get out!
:-D



Could you elaborate on this a little more? I think that is a excellent idea. What would you relay through the lighter to cause it not to start? Fuel pump?

ledzeppelin240
03-17-2006, 05:17 PM
Yeah that cigarette lighter idea is awesome, I never thought of that.

Phre0nBurn
03-17-2006, 06:24 PM
Hahaha...
Yea...

I mean, If you think about it, the way the lighter works is it creates a connection beetween a positive power source, and ground, which in turn arcs like a welder (im not a cigarette lighter expert, but i think this is about right), and heats up the lighter... So, if you look at the whole lighter plug unit, there is the body of it, which is the ground, and then the center part, which touches the spiral shaped wafer on the lighter itself and heats it up...

So in essence, think of it as a switch... Say you have a 12v LED light, just as an example of a basic power and ground power source, and you want to turn the LED on, but for some reason, you cant get to a switch (just pretend), and you dont want to twist the wires together to turn it on and off...

You ground out the ground... You run a power wire from a constant source, ie the battery, and then you run that to the body of the lighter...
Then, you hook up the positive wire for the LED to the tip of the lighter housing...
So when you press the lighter in, it makes a connection...

I wonder if I can do one of those crappy ascii diagrams... haha

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - ~ Negative LED Wire
+ + + + + + + + + O = = = = = = = = = ~

+ is Constant power. O is the lighter. = is the power leaving the lighter.

Now, the reason I said something about a relay, is this...
A lighter is big, and metal, and like i said before, im not an expert on any of this, but I would think that the power source traveling through that little thing would drop the voltage supply a little bit.

The way a relay works (just in case some of you dont know)
is kinda like this in simple form...
You have a switch, that is connected to a constant power source on the input, and a power wire going out to the device it needs to prive power to.
There is a metal tab that is spring loaded inside of a relay, and 2 prongs...

that tab is the power, and one of the prongs is nothing, and it sits against that, the other prong, is the power out...
So think like the little things that hit the ball in a pinball machine. thats the tab...

It sits against the Nothing prong, but when electricity is supplied to the "turn me on or off" part of the relay, it uses a very small electro magnetic force to make that tab move (just like that pinball arm thing) over and smack the other prong, bridging the connection, and allowing power to pass through, until the supply isnt coming, in wich it then flops back over to the nothing side. that is the click you hear when you turn things on... (think turn signal click)

So, all of that lamens terms crap aside...
Its pretty simple really...
You could wire up your fuel pump to it, BUT, then your lighter would have to remain inside to keep the power going...

A relay for your starter... A relay for the sensor on a clutch... A relay for the brake sensor on an automatic...

Another thing that would be a little more complicated to do, and not available for all vehicles... Is cruise control..
I have myself owned a few vehicles that HAD it, but no longer do (due to swaps), but, my buttons are still there...
Out of all the cruise control buttons, there is 1 that is a "Clicky" button (it clicks in, and stays in for the ON positition, and clicks back out and stays pushed out for the OFF position)

Find the wires for it, and do the same thing as you would the lighter...
You could wire them both together so that you have to have both on, but i would recommend doing them to seperate things, so there would be more crap the theif would have to figure out...

Of course, another anti theft device ive used in rare situations (being the whiteboy in a bad neighborhood im not familiar with with a nice car), get in the passanger side, pull the carpet back, and take your damn ECU with you...
A little too much, but ive done it, haha
That, along with my faceplate, and my steering wheel... I have the race quick release hub on it...

Just get creative, and you can come up with things...
Got a CD player? Most CD players have an output on them for a power antenna, to tell it to go up, and down, the way that power source works is it provides power to the relay for the antenna... simple, run that wire to another relay for something else... your CD player will power on when the key is in the ON position, so then it can start up, and send power, and then you can crank... But, it will be useless if you keep the cd player in FM or AM mode... So it isnt that good of an idea, but then again, if you have the time, then no one can steal your radio, then decide, hey, lets grab the car... haha

Think of a relay like this... A Lock in a door...
There is a wire... Cut that wire, and put the relay there...
you have to insert a key into a lock, it turns, and makes that wire touch the other wire, making a connection, but only while the key is supplied, once the key is remove, it breaks the connection...
In this case, the Key is the Power...

Another good anti theft device for those of you with alarms (Wich you BETTER have), is you can buy seperate Horns (the bastards that make all the noise).... You can even buy some REALLY loud ones... Buy 3 more... Put another under the hood, or in the front bumper, and stuff 2 up under the dash... Imaging truing to sit inside of a car with 2 alarms going off INSIDE of it... Hope you have earplugs...

Phre0nBurn
03-17-2006, 06:43 PM
OH... Another note..

Haha

Just to help you guys get creative...

Sensors all need supply volts...

;)
And EVERY wire that goes into your ECU does SOMETHING...

Remember, lock and key... cut it and fix it, and cut it again..
off-on-back off...

Get creative... there are TONS of possibilities...
And a few more anti theft tips...
I havent always been the best person...
Alarms dont stop anything from happening, but it lets you know, and that gives you the opportunity to open fire, or throw grenades, or grab a bad...

Park under lights... They do help Deter people... Park in view of a window..
It makes people sketchy, and less likely to grab your stuff...

Make sure you let people know you have an alarm... That tiny little LED light that blinks is just more for someone to worry about..
These days, dont skimp on an alarm... If you shop around, you can usually find a pretty good deal on a top notch alarm, like the Viper 791XV... with a two-way LCD remote, and options like the regular shock sensor, a glass break sensor, proximity sensor (when someone comes near the car, and it can be set to a certain strength, so it goes off if your within a few feet of the car, or just when your arm goes in the window), a hood sensor, trunk sensor, tail gate sensor (for us truck ppl), door sensor, etc... good buy... and pretty good range...

If you have a system, BOLT YOUR SH** DOWN!!!
I cant tell people this enough... Run a bolt or 2 through the inside of your box to under your car, yes, that means drilling holes... thats what silicone caulking is for...
Bolt your amps down... If you cant get them somewhere where thay cant be nabbed (bolt em onto the box so that you have to move the box to get to the amp screws. yes its a pain, but then you have to remove the subs, un-bolt the box, and then unbolt the amp, and you can also use special tool screws for the subs. those star shaped ones with the metal tab in the center work pretty well... Not sure what im talking about? look on the underside of your cable box...)

i20ar
03-20-2006, 12:44 AM
the kill switch idea sounds really cool

DoriftoPnoy
03-30-2006, 03:39 AM
wow will you just listen to Phre0nBurn. Props man. So moddest like he doesnt know what he's talking about. lol. I think imma do a kill switch DIY as soon as I get my S14 back. It's been sooooo long.

i8yourfwd
03-30-2006, 11:20 AM
Wow Phre0nBurn, very good posts... +rep for you sir.

slownslurious
03-30-2006, 12:14 PM
battery disconnect + hidden fuel cut off + removeable steering wheel for the win.
just remember if they really want your car they are gonna get it... we've had several stolen in town apparently using tow trucks. not much you can do to prevent that (if you had hydros or rods you could drop it on the frame...lol)

E2EKIELR34
03-30-2006, 11:20 PM
just get locate the fuel pump wire coming out of the ecu.. cut it and then extended both ends to where ever you want to hide the kill switch solder on a switch and your done =)

im pretty sure you can use a standard switch... i used a random small radio shack toggle one....and then i accidently broken it =*( and found a switch in the junkyard off a alarm or something and just used that...i used 14 gauge wire i belive =)

would this be the same for s14 kouki?

CoasTek240
05-07-2008, 05:59 PM
just get locate the fuel pump wire coming out of the ecu.. cut it and then extended both ends to where ever you want to hide the kill switch solder on a switch and your done =)

im pretty sure you can use a standard switch... i used a random small radio shack toggle one....and then i accidently broken it =*( and found a switch in the junkyard off a alarm or something and just used that...i used 14 gauge wire i belive =)

Which one coming out of the ECU is the fuel pump wire? what color is it?

JVD
05-07-2008, 06:00 PM
Which one coming out of the ECU is the fuel pump wire? what color is it?
Look in the FSM or look at an ECU pinout diagram. I'm pretty sure mine was black/pink.

EDIT: I was wrong at first. Fixed now.

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html

g6civcx
05-07-2008, 10:41 PM
Like I said above, just put a switch on the white wire going into the ignition switch.

Why do you want a fuel cut? All that would do is let the thief crank the motor like crazy.

If you put a switch on the power wire, no electrical accessory would work at all.

CoasTek240
05-08-2008, 03:21 PM
Like I said above, just put a switch on the white wire going into the ignition switch.

Why do you want a fuel cut? All that would do is let the thief crank the motor like crazy.

If you put a switch on the power wire, no electrical accessory would work at all.

I guess im gonna install an ignition kill switch, im going outside now to look for the white wire you speak of.
-dave

CoasTek240
05-08-2008, 03:24 PM
Look in the FSM or look at an ECU pinout diagram. I'm pretty sure mine was black/pink.

EDIT: I was wrong at first. Fixed now.

http://www.frsport.com/SR20DET-Swap-Engine-Harness-Wiring-Diagram-Guide-SR-SR20_t_26.html

so the orange wire?

g6civcx
05-08-2008, 03:48 PM
I guess im gonna install an ignition kill switch, im going outside now to look for the white wire you speak of.
-dave

It's the thick white one going into the ignition switch harness.

You can trace it back to the relay box. Pluck it anywhere you like.

CoasTek240
05-09-2008, 11:12 PM
It's the thick white one going into the ignition switch harness.

You can trace it back to the relay box. Pluck it anywhere you like.
well i did that. it works great
+1 for the help.

How should i go about doing this fuel pump kill switch? where should i tap in? coming from the ECU?

g6civcx
05-10-2008, 06:10 AM
well i did that. it works great
+1 for the help.

How should i go about doing this fuel pump kill switch? where should i tap in? coming from the ECU?

If you have a switch on the white wire, why do you need another switch on the fuel pump?

Even if you insist, in the fuel pump harness, there is a black/yellow wire. This is the fuel pump power wire. You can follow this wire all the way back to the underhood relay box. There are 4 wires total going to this relay (EGI Pump).

There's also a black fuel pump ground wire in the fuel pump harness. There are 2 other black wires in the same harness. Unplug the harness and use a continuity tester and find continuity between the black/yellow wire and one of the black wires to find out which one.

You can put a switch on any 4 wires going to the relay or the black ground wire. Your choice.

JohnD1079
05-10-2008, 09:25 AM
Im in here just bc of Phre0nBurn

markyboi
05-10-2008, 10:06 AM
as far as tapping into the white wire in the ignition...

do you need a certain gauge wire to tap into that? like same size, or would a smaller wire work?

g6civcx
05-10-2008, 10:09 AM
do you need a certain gauge wire to tap into that? like same size, or would a smaller wire work?

Let's think about it for a minute. When you detour cars from the freeway, should you give them the same number of lanes on the freeway, or do you force them to merge onto a single lane?

What happens when too many cars try to merge onto too few lanes?

Same thing with electrons. Just remember that too much merging = friction = heat = fire.

Also, remember that when you make connections, if you only have a short distance to go, technically you could get away with using a smaller wire and still get away with it. But if you have a long way to go, you need thicker wires.

markyboi
05-10-2008, 10:11 AM
thank you! +1

CoasTek240
05-10-2008, 10:19 AM
Unplug the harness and use a continuity tester and find continuity between the black/yellow wire and one of the black wires to find out which one.

You can put a switch on any 4 wires going to the relay or the black ground wire. Your choice.

not to nitpick, but if i can choose any of the 4 wires, then why do i need to test for continuity?

miklos
07-25-2008, 05:53 AM
I used a remote alarm fob which turns a relay on or off for the fuel pump.
So the remote must be pressed before starting the car to connect the fuel pump.

g6civcx
07-25-2008, 07:02 AM
not to nitpick, but if i can choose any of the 4 wires, then why do i need to test for continuity?

I was referring to the fuel pump harness going all the way to the tank in the rear. It has some wires with the same colour. It's hard to distinguish between the fuel pump wiring and fuel gauge/low fuel light. That's why I said test to continuity to make sure you're plucking the fuel pump wire and not the gauge/light wire.

Sorry about that. This is not clear in the FSM so you will have to pull the trunk carpet and look for yourself. You'll see what I mean.

As far as knocking the fuel pump into a switch, all 4 wires must be connected in order to fire the pump. You can pluck any of them and detour to a switch.

Brentbohn
03-01-2011, 04:09 PM
wouldnt it make more sense to have an alarm output channel trigger a relay in the starter or fuel or ignition harness to complete the circuit? this way it can only be started with the remote and key at the same time... just my :2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c:

Dro21
03-01-2011, 04:32 PM
wouldnt it make more sense to have an alarm output channel trigger a relay in the starter or fuel or ignition harness to complete the circuit? this way it can only be started with the remote and key at the same time... just my :2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c::2c:

Do you know your posting in a thread from 08?

Brentbohn
03-01-2011, 04:38 PM
yep, thinking its time for an update:mrmeph:

chiboy002
03-01-2011, 04:56 PM
you're making a jackass out of yourself for trying to prove a point that, frankly, no one gives a fuck about

Tantwoforty
03-02-2011, 02:12 PM
bullshit aside...
this thread contains amazing information..
now i know 150% how a relay works, and good ways to protect my car.
i believe this was a good bump.