New 240sx owner, first tune-up.

[spirit]

UPDATE: See post 19 in this thread.

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I searched the forums best I could, and came up with some of the brands to buy... but seeing as how this will be my first tuneup, might as well do it all and get it done right the first time. Oh btw from the forum rules, there is a link to "Zilvia.net Technical Page" at http://www.zilvia.net/faqs/faqs.asp well its 404.
I am going to have a shop do all the work, since I don't have the time (but I do have the money, spend all my time making it heh)
I know,,, freeken a ton of questions, but I don't have a manual er anything for the car, and really don't trust shops to get the best stuff.

Most items I'm going to get from Kragens (partsamerica.com) because they are local, have descent prices, as well as a descent selection.

If I should use something else, just say so... money not 'much' of an issue ;)

Kragens - NGK Spark Plug: Plug No. ZFR5E-11 Gap .044 ($1.99) $7.96 I don't know if these are the copper ones, but I doubt it will matter, as I'm running stock.
Kragens - Fram Oil Filter: X2™ Extended Guard® $11.99
Kragens - Fram Fuel Filter for 300zx part G7404 $9.89 Forced onto my 240sx lines.
Kragens - Fram PCV Valve $3.99
Air filter: Since performance filters cost $50, decided to get ingen intake $130 from http://www.titanmotorsports.com/incoairinexf.html (or local if I can find it at a descent price) does it require anything more?

Kragens - Carbon Canister Filter? Umm do I need this?

Fluids:

Coolant: Does this car use 100%, 50/50 mix, other? Its running right where it should, but I want to keep some coolant on hand just incase.

Oil: used mobiloil.com it said to use ether:
Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30 or Mobil 1 5W-30
Shouldn't I use 10W-30? Searching forums, this seems to be what people are using.
So if 10W-30 then Mobil 1 Extended Performance 10W-30 good?
Kragens doesn't carry it, but I have autozone and pepboys near me as well, one of them should have it.

Break/clutch fluid:
Prestone Dot 3? Pyroil Dot 3? or Valvoline Dot 3 & 4?
And how many oz should I pick up, I want to flush the clutch system, not worried about the breaks, they are working just fine.

Power steeting, which brand again?

Tranny, type F? brand?

Anthing else need changing regulary?
Belts have been done; Hoses will be checked, replaced if necessary.

Niehoff Ignition Oxygen Sensor $37 If I need one.

Run some fuel injection cleaner through the car as well.

Current main issue:
I'm having some issues with my clutch, when I bought the car it was great, but now 6 weeks later its kinda nasty. Seems to depend on temp how it wants to act. Going to do the mod seen here http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/installs/clutchlinemod/clutchlinemod.html as well as get the line if needed, the cylinder if needed, slave cylinder, whatever is needed to fix it.
I want to get the SS Clutch line, but hopefully I can find it local, as I want it done this weekend.
TakaMotorsports is in LA and sells em... maybe I can get one with out shipping it :)
If I need it, which one? Clutch Master Cylinder:
Raybestos $47, Beck/Arnley $52, Tru Torque $24, Bendix $56

Secondary issue:
Eng light is on. Was EGR code, prob still is.
Idle is slightly rough. When A/C kicks off, rpm drops to 500 then up to normal 800.
Allready replaced the EGR valve, but not the hoses or sensors on it.
Took the car in 2 weeks ago for EGR, exhaust & catalytic converter. Passed smog with really great numbers.

Edit: Oh I prob should say.... its a 1990 240sx hatchback

[TAMTANIUM]

Ill install all that on your car for way less than what those shops will charge you.

[aznpoopy]

my personal opinion

Spark Plug: NGK yes.

Oil Filter: i would only use OEM or purolater, with a strong pref towards OEM

300zx Fuel Filter: OEM. i hate fram...

Coolant: For emergency coolant, i keep 50/50 mix in the car.

Oil: 5w-30 or 10w-30 are both fine. they both cover your typical temperature ranges, one with a slightly larger range then the other.

Break/clutch fluid: ate super blue

Power steering: you do not use power steering fluid. you use automatic trasmission fluid, dexron 4 or above.

Tranny: Redline manual transmission fluid

What exactly is the issue with your clutch?

you could probably get this all done in an hour, two hours tops. a shop will charge you an arm and a leg.

[spirit]

What exactly is the issue with your clutch?

Well when its cool/cold, seems to work just fine, tho be it a little deep of a press. When its hot, it doesn't seem to release all the way except maybe when the peddle is to the floor. I'm guessing it has a leak as it slowly got bad the 6 weeks I have owned the car. When quick shifting, it wouldn't grab as soon as expected, causing car to rev. It's done that since I had it, I figured at first that it was just because I wasn't used to hydraulic clutch (my 66 cuda is all linkage) but now that I know it has some sort of loop back crap, going to get rid of that junk. Only when its really cold out does it not do that... surprised me one time, going into 2nd gear, got a little rubber one morning. My way of fixing things, is usually replace parts until it works right. So if its not hydraulics, next paycheck, I will snag a clutch/pressure plate & flywheel. So far with all my cars everything I replaced seemed to do the fix... well to say any ways I haven't been wrong. *Guess ya could say I'm a good guesser of whats wrong, tho I was brought up by mechanic... so its not all luck.

you could probably get this all done in an hour, two hours tops. a shop will charge you an arm and a leg.

Not if I wan't to fiddle with the EGR... thats back behind everything. Shop I took it to, put the car way up in the air so they could get to it from under the car, the old one broke apart when they finally got it off (rusted or whatever).

Is it really that easy to put on the injen intake? looks like there is alot of junk to rip out to me, more than an hours worth.

Ill install all that on your car for way less than what those shops will charge you.

Watch it... I might just take you up on that :duh: ... but you would have to come out here (end of new 210 freeway).

[mrmephistopheles]

Instead of FRAM stuff, I recommend OEM Nissan or Mobil 1.
Also get some new plug wires (NGK is best)
Also get some 3/8" vacuum line and spend a few hours replacing your old vacuum lines.

[Maeda]

If you really wanna go the whole 9 I recommend taking the intake mani off and replacing the 1 zillion crappy hoses under there.

Shoot the whole engine bay down with gunk engine brite and give it a good scrub. Get rid of some rust, hell pull the motor and sand/paint the block while you're at it.

I did this about 8 months ago, and it was totally worth it.

[Irukandji]

Your engine light will go away once you replace your o2 sensor. Samething happened to me, it flashed an EGR code, but it drove like the o2 sensor was done (i.e. crappy gas mileage, check engine light goes away when i accelerate etc). Just replace it and reset the ECU and bye bye check engine light.

Sparkplugs - No issues with Bosch Platinum
OEM Nissan > Fram , but really, they'll both work well.

As for oil, I prefer to use the regular Mobil 1 10w30 because I'm still skeptical on their 15,000mile protection. Transmission: redline mt90 . Differential: any cheap crap will do (assuming you have an open differential). SS clutch line is unnescesary unless you want to replace your stock rubber one.

Finally, if you're spending all that money on a tune up... be sure to get a new cap and rotor.

[Jefferson]

I agree with everyone on the Nissan oil filter. there is no reason not to buy it its only like a max of $2 more than that fram crap and you can't go wrong with OEM

[spirit]

If you really wanna go the whole 9 I recommend taking the intake mani off and replacing the 1 zillion crappy hoses under there.

Shoot the whole engine bay down with gunk engine brite and give it a good scrub. Get rid of some rust, hell pull the motor and sand/paint the block while you're at it.

I did this about 8 months ago, and it was totally worth it.

Man if I had that kind of time, fucken my 66 cuda would be running.

Your engine light will go away once you replace your o2 sensor.

As for oil, I prefer to use the regular Mobil 1 10w30 because I'm still skeptical on their 15,000mile protection. Transmission: redline mt90 . Differential: any cheap crap will do (assuming you have an open differential). SS clutch line is unnescesary unless you want to replace your stock rubber one.

Finally, if you're spending all that money on a tune up... be sure to get a new cap and rotor.

I will do cap/rotor/wires another weekend. Grab some performance wires online.
Niehoff Ignition Oxygen Sensor good? or OEM on that too?
I want the SS clutch line... stiffer the action, the better, besides the current one is prob leaking.


I agree with everyone on the Nissan oil filter. there is no reason not to buy it its only like a max of $2 more than that fram crap and you can't go wrong with OEM

Ugh trip to a dealership, man I hate dealerships.

[Irukandji]

I just used the Bosch universal o2 sensor from Kragen. only $20 and you only have to crimp one wire... had it for a while.. no problems here

[AllenRPS13]

Air filter: Since performance filters cost $50, decided to get ingen intake $130 from http://www.titanmotorsports.com/incoairinexf.html (or local if I can find it at a descent price) does it require anything more?

as i know, the injen intake u say is just the cold air extension... not the short ram intake... it's $200
http://www.titanmotorsports.com/inshraminfor13.html

[Nan Desu Ka?!]

Fram sucks. Dont use their products... go for OEM, Mobil1 or (what im using) K&N.

[spirit]

Just got back from all the local auto part stores (ones that I know about anyways)
Wasn't able to find:
Break/clutch fluid: ate super blue
or
Tranny: Redline manual transmission fluid


Power steering: you do not use power steering fluid. you use automatic trasmission fluid, dexron 4 or above.

I got some Valvoline ATF Mercon V, this ok? Pepboys had Mobil 1 mercon V, but I allready got this form kragens... and it was like a third of the price.

I'm going to go back out with a friend, and find some local ricer shops, see if I can snag the wires/cap/rotor/other 2 fluids. Not a cheep tune up, $140 so far. :barf:

BTW thanks AllenRPS13, don't know what I was smoking. Not really 100% sure I am going to get it tho... $200 for something that won't really do anything for me. Besides I plan to go rb25 in the future (if I can money wize).

Edit: BTW if anyone cares... OEM oil filter is $1 cheeper than the good fram one. It was $8 something... BUT they freeken wanted over $80 for o2 sensor... no freeken way... I got the O.E. Bosch one for $35. Could have got the universal for another $10 off but I'm just lazy.

[Gnnr]

Power steering: you do not use power steering fluid. you use automatic trasmission fluid, dexron 4 or above.

Huh? What? You use ATF as power steering fluid? Can you explain this to me? I've only seen this done on some european cars that require it.

[EchoOfSilence]

Just got back from all the local auto part stores (ones that I know about anyways)
Wasn't able to find:
Break/clutch fluid: ate super blue
or
Tranny: Redline manual transmission fluid


I got some Valvoline ATF Mercon V, this ok? Pepboys had Mobil 1 mercon V, but I allready got this form kragens... and it was like a third of the price.

I'm going to go back out with a friend, and find some local ricer shops, see if I can snag the wires/cap/rotor/other 2 fluids. Not a cheep tune up, $140 so far. :barf:

BTW thanks AllenRPS13, don't know what I was smoking. Not really 100% sure I am going to get it tho... $200 for something that won't really do anything for me. Besides I plan to go rb25 in the future (if I can money wize).

Edit: BTW if anyone cares... OEM oil filter is $1 cheeper than the good fram one. It was $8 something... BUT they freeken wanted over $80 for o2 sensor... no freeken way... I got the O.E. Bosch one for $35. Could have got the universal for another $10 off but I'm just lazy.

no no no... it needs Dexron 3/4 or above. ATE and Redline aren't available at places like Kragen and Autozone usually, they're available @ performance-oriented stores.
Next time, try www.courtesyparts.com . The OEM stuff on there is usually cheaper shipped than what local dealerships will want to let them go for. Check http://www.store.yahoo.com/phase2motorsports/ and see if they still have the deal on the magnecor wireset for cheap

Huh? What? You use ATF as power steering fluid? Can you explain this to me? I've only seen this done on some european cars that require it.

Nissan has required ATF in the power steering system since the mid-80's, IIRC. It's because of its viscosity, boiling point, and detergency capabilities. power steering fluid would gunk your system up, and fry either your PS pump, your lines, or your steering rack. I know my system's fucked right now because of it.

EDIT: The manual says Dexron 3 or above, but hell, 4+ is better :)

[aznpoopy]

^^^i stand corrected. :)

to get redline and ATE, you'll typically have to order it online. find a website that sells both and you can save $$$ on shipping.

i've never heard of mercon V. i don't know if it works in our p/s system or not.

[EchoOfSilence]

Mercon V is for Ford trannies, I think. Hell, it was Ford that invented it.

[Jonnie Fraz]

You said you were looking for stiffer clutch action, Did you bypass your clutch dampner? I did this after spending too much time trying to bleed my clutch lines...feels nice.

[spirit]

You said you were looking for stiffer clutch action, Did you bypass your clutch dampner? I did this after spending too much time trying to bleed my clutch lines...feels nice.

Found the (main) problem... the cap was loose on the fluid thing. Kinda junky plastic imho. I still plan on doing the lines... maybe... something tells me I will be replacing the eng & trans before it matters that much to me.

Finnished tune up, but...
After changing of the o2 sensor, pvc valve, egr valve... I'm still getting code 32 on my ecu. I tryed clearing the ecu by going to mode 5, turn the scrue back to idle pos. then turn off the car... then again starting the car... not really sure if it cleared it or not, but still getting code 32.

At a repair shop they said could be a egr temp sensor. Any clues?

Boy after doing the tune up, man the car ran bad for the first 10min er so. Guess it had to get air bubbles out of the new fuel filter. Running great now tho. But I must say, car starts alot quicker now. Also did the 1997 quest alt. upgrade required a longer belt, and other work not in any of the guides out there... but it does fit, and work good.

I also got one of the belt guides going out (top driver-side) what exactly would that be called, if nissan carrys them? Or am I limited to finding it in a junk yard?

[Ricks15]

Dude a Master tune up like the one you are doing brings back these old cars to life. Redline is good for the tranny but for engine oil next time try using royal purple that stuff is worth every penny.

[aznpoopy]

At a repair shop they said could be a egr temp sensor. Any clues?


code 32 is indeed EGR system. start checking it.

[koukidough]

dude if your gonna do all that atleast flush your coolant. Intall a new OE water pump and new thermostat.

[spirit]

dude if your gonna do all that atleast flush your coolant. Intall a new OE water pump and new thermostat.

Oh ya it got a flush, as well as the power steering too.
I didn't install a new pump... seems fine, power really isn't an issue with this car. When I have extra $ it will be eng swap time... but I would really like to see this eng last another year.... so far it isnt cutting it. On the freeway yesterday it did this funky thing of when I hit the gas the rmps would DROP. (bad traffic, 56 & 60 freeway to those in LA area) Granted I didn't stall ... freeked me out... tapped the gas like 3 times and it went away... I have no guesses for what that was since it hasn't done it twice. I am going to send the car to a mechanic tho, let them figure out the egr light, check timing & mass air flow sensor. Thats all I can think of thats left to do, unless there are some sensors I don't know about. Really starting to get bored with all that I'm spending on this eng, gots new belts, most of the vacume lines... basically my last 4 paycheck. I really want to start getting things like coilovers for it. :whip:

[trsilvias13]

Where do everyone order their tune up parts? Just wondering

[Jung918]

i usually get my oem stuff from http://www.performancenissanparts.com/

[PF_Doom]

Gangstaz I tell you. All of them...