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View Full Version : Shorted out entire car? Electrical problems..please help!


mind-pilot
02-08-2006, 12:11 PM
Hello all,

Im having some electrical problems that im a little concerned about. Basically a while ago my 95 240sx would not start back up due to electrical issues, the key would go all the way to "start" but nothing would happen even though it had pleanty of juice and the rest of the electrical items were on. I first thought it was a bad terminal conection, but then went on to think its either the starter or the ignition switch.

I pulled the steering colum plastics off in hope to mess with the ign. switch to see if i could bypass it to see if IT was what had a bad connection. I planned on connecting the main white/red hot wire with the black/yellow (start) wire. But accidentally hit two black ones or something. Basically the the car died and hasnt had power since. The batt is fine, and i have checked EVERY fuse i could find! But there is no power to anything! Im a little worried....

What do you guys think? What could i possibly do to bring this back to life? Also, what is your input on the not-starting issue?

Thanks a lot, i look forward to reading the replies.

Have a good one!

g6civcx
02-08-2006, 01:59 PM
The starter has a bypass switch to keep you from starting it in gear. See if you're getting power to the starter and it's just not cranking, or if power is diverted somewhere else.

If it's a manual, check your clutch switch. If it's an automatic, there's a circuit that keeps you from starting when the gearshift is in D or R. Check those circuits and make sure they're good. Then go on from there.

Also check the fusebox under the hood.

mind-pilot
02-08-2006, 02:31 PM
I forgot to mention it was AT! Thanks!

I did check the fusebox under the hood, and all is well.

Where are the gear-safe start circuits located?

Thanks!

TurDz
02-08-2006, 02:41 PM
If you're talking about the switch that prevents you (electrically) from starting the car without pressing on the clutch pedal, it's right at the hinge of the clutch pedal assembly. It's looks like a elongated button, and becomes depressed any time the clutch pedal is all the way up.

So take a look under there...

n2n2i
02-08-2006, 02:56 PM
12volts white + ignition harness,
Starter black/yellow + ignition harness,
Second Starter black/white + ignition harness,
Ignition black/red + ignition harness,
Accessory white + ignition harness,
Notes: When doing remote start, this wire must be isolated from the keyswitch with the accessory relay.;

These are what your different wires are under the dash, hope it helps.

projectRDM
02-08-2006, 06:44 PM
You haven't checked every fuse if there's still no power. 100A fusible link sounds blown.

g6civcx
02-08-2006, 07:01 PM
Pop the top off the underhood fusebox and check the fusible link. Look closely and run your finger across to see if it's blown.

mind-pilot
02-09-2006, 05:26 AM
the switch that prevents you (electrically) from starting the car without pressing on the clutch pedal



Yeah, the car is automatic.


n2n2i - Thanks for the help with those wires, but im a little confused... what do you mean by isolate the wires from the keyswitch w/ accesory relay? What exactly do i have to do to start it like that?

R240NA/g6civcx- Ill check out that fusable link, what/where exactly is it? I mean i understand its one in the engine bay fuse box, but how can i tell its blown? They all appeared to be ok from looking at them.

When i put the key in the ignition right now i *think* i get a small beep (key in ignition warning) but absolutely nothing comes on as far as power.

Thanks again for the help all, keep it comming!!

mind-pilot
02-10-2006, 09:01 PM
Welp, i am stupid. I missed one of the fuses. It was the 35A fusable ignition one (go figure). I cant believe i missed it, it really had me concerned for a while.

So...thats ok, but im still having problems with the car starting only half the time. Im thinking either a bad starter or ignition switch or something....

It will start fine, then the next time i try it gives me nothing at all. Still all the power, but wont turn over. How accurate is the "voltage drop" test described in the shop manual?

Thanks!