Just a few question about my new car

[Ballistic-Mobile.com]

It is a 1990 fastback w/ 144k miles.

When I step on the clutch pedal it goes down real easy, but when i am letting off the clutch it doesn't seem to push back very much. I mean it will defenately go back to the original position, but i am used to the clutch pedal doing some of the work on the way back. Do you know what i am talking about? I am just wondering if that is normal or if I need to do something to stiffen it up?

When I step on the brakes they work fine until the very end, and then they sort of make a moaning sound. It could be the suspension making the noise, or maybe were the suspension components meet? It isn't too too noticable, but it is there.


Since the engine has 144K miles, how will I know if it is getting the most out of the stock engine? I know I can get it comp tested, and have a leakdown performed, but how much do these procedures cost? Should I just buy a rebuild kit (where and how much)? Does it include valve springs? I want to run at high rpm levels, so I will need stiffer springs. Please recommend somewhere to find info on head work. Maybe I will try howstuffworks.com

When the car is in gear and i let off the accelerator then get back on it there is a loud thud noise, as if the rear differential has a gap in between the gears so that when i step on the gas the gear will spin freely then make contact w/ the other gear causing a thud! Any ideas? Eventually I will be getting a 300z twin turbo differential, and the axles if it is possible, so if anyone can help...much appreciated!

Sometimes when i am sitting at a stop light the idle will fructualte from 1200 rpm to 8-6-4-2000rpm, then back up to 1000, then back down and it keeps making me hit the throttle so I don't stall out! Any ideas?

When I step on the gas hard there is a black smoke that comes from the exhaust. I asked some people at work, and they say that black exhaust is cause by being to rich. I also checked the dipstick, and it seemed to be a quart too much. If it was oil then wouldn't the smoke be blueish grey?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want this car to be in really good condition as soon as possible! Thanks in advance
zac

[240meowth]

wow, got quite a few questions to start the car out.

for the clutch, check the clutch resivor, add fluid if necessary, other than that, i don't have a clue...

for the break, check the break fluid resivor, that's my guess...  but u said it makes noise when it's all the way down... so i assume you are talking about while it's stationary.  if so, it might be the power-assisted breaking kicking in, i don't know about the power breaking much, but there is a possibility that it's connected to the pulley, and you have to tighten the tension belt.

for the roof?  i think a lot of import's roof well do fine, i think it's preped a different way than the domestic ones, i've never had a problem w/ the roof coming down on an import, but my aunt's oldsmobile... wow!

[mbmbmb23]

The thump when you hit a bump might be the emergency spare tire not being bolted down in the back.

Check ebay for a hatch, but if you get it at a junkyard you wont pay S&H.



-m

[Ballistic-Mobile.com]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (240meowth @ May 19 2002,9:40)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">wow, got quite a few questions to start the car out.

for the clutch, check the clutch resivor, add fluid if necessary, other than that, i don't have a clue...

for the break, check the break fluid resivor, that's my guess... but u said it makes noise when it's all the way down... so i assume you are talking about while it's stationary. if so, it might be the power-assisted breaking kicking in, i don't know about the power breaking much, but there is a possibility that it's connected to the pulley, and you have to tighten the tension belt.

for the roof? i think a lot of import's roof well do fine, i think it's preped a different way than the domestic ones, i've never had a problem w/ the roof coming down on an import, but my aunt's oldsmobile... wow!</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Well it happened to my import. &nbsp;Pimpssan shitra is my old cars name, it is a 1991 nissan sentra!

Anyone else?

[Ballistic-Mobile.com]

Geeze guys I figured I was doing a good thing by putting all my questions into one thread, but if I don't start getting some replys I might just have to ask idividually! &nbsp;Please help me. &nbsp;I want to make this car as reliable as possible.

I went to the store and bought Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30 oil and Fram Double Gaurd oil filter, and some Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner! &nbsp;Please if anyone knows if any of these products are a rip off, or if their is a better filter/fuel system cleaner. &nbsp;I know Mobil 1 is the best motor oil, I just hope I got the right viscosity.

As for the engine running too rich, could that be caused by the O2 sensor, or the MAF sensor? &nbsp;

Would there be any benefit, if i reset my ecu? &nbsp;I am pretty sure that the 240sx I bought hasnt been drivin for a good while, and I want the computer to know that I have a heavy foot, and to learn my driving style. &nbsp;Does this make any sence or is it just horseshit?

After driving it some more, I am getting to the point were I am almost possitive that my differential is going bad. &nbsp;I didn't really ask this properly before, but can I just take the entire rear end(diff, axles, driveshafts, and brakes) of a twin turbo 300zx and slap it on the 240? &nbsp;When I am done w/ the car it hopefully will have around 400+ horsepower, and I want to be able to have a pretty high top speed, so that is why I want the twin turbo differential insead of the I30 or N/A 300z.

Again all help is very much appreciated!

[240sxspeedracer1]

i just wanted to comment on the oil that you bought. &nbsp;I kinda think that since the car has a lot of mileage, and since there was black smoke comming out the exhaust, that you should have maybe bought some regular oil, like some 10w30 maybe not 10w40. &nbsp;The way the car is seems like the previous owner didnt take to good care of it and I wouldnt believe that he used synthetic so you shouldnt have switched at such a late stage of the game.u should do what I do, go to a mechanic and tell him u need to know everything wrong with the car and tha you are getting ur tax refund in 2 days from a rapid refund place and will come back to im with all the parts needed for the repair work, and then never come back &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/tounge.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':p'> &nbsp;<img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/wink.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=';)'> Works for me <img src="http://www.zilvia.net/f/iB_html/non-cgi/emoticons/thumbs-up.gif" border="0" valign="absmiddle" alt=':thumbsup:'>

[drifting240racer]

</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Ballistic-Mobile.com @ May 21 2002,7:43)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I went to the store and bought Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30 oil ... I know Mobil 1 is the best motor oil, I just hope I got the right viscosity...

When I am done w/ the car it hopefully will have around 400+ horsepower, and I want to be able to have a pretty high top speed</td></tr></table><span id='postcolor'>
Ok first of all i think it is a big can of worms to say Mobil 1 synth is the "best" motor oil. I personaly chose Redline b/c i found it to be better then the moble 1. Don't get me wrong I think mobil 1 is good and that would be my next chose. Many ppl i have talked to say that redline is some of the best out there but it is pricey. I personaly like my car and want the best for it so i am going with redline. Setting that aside I think the viscosity is just fine unless you are going to go revving it to 6700 all the time and keeping it there. i did not see the miles on your engine before and i sorta agree with the post above me

as far as the 400+ what do you plan to use to get that? turbo ,n/a , supercharger, engine swap???

and with the check out your car thing go down to AAA and have them check it out. They will charge about $40 i think and do a pretty good all over check of your car. I did that with my old truck and we found out the spark pulgs were real bad(he had the hardest time getting the machine to read the plugs(wires were real broke) dam former machanic did not replace the wires) but the AAA thing was good

drifting240racer

[Ballistic-Mobile.com]

Thanks for the replies guys....To achieve the above horsepower range I will be doing a rb20det swap and totally building it! &nbsp;

I am not doubting you guys, but could you explain a little bit more as to why I should use regular oil. &nbsp;And by the way I did state above that i bought 10w30 but it is synthetic! &nbsp;

Good idea about the AAA thing. &nbsp;I am on my parents account w/ AAA so I will try and find a place close by. &nbsp;I don't really like to lie that hardcore about small stuff, so i think i am going to do the AAA route.

Does anyone know anything about the rear end swap I am thinking about? &nbsp;If it is possible, then that will be one of my 1st big purchases on the car!

[importrza]

you must be pretty handy if you think the rb20det is just going to jump in your engine bay....

[nrcooled]

1. Seriously, &nbsp;high hopes are great but 400hp is expensive. &nbsp;And unreliable (depends on how its done) &nbsp;2.The entire ass end of a 300zx will not fit into the 240 the diff is, iirc, about a half inch too short so a new drive shaft will be in order 3. Get your current ride in good working order before adding anything else (so when you drop the cash on a diff and your tranny goes you won't have the cash to fix it) especially if you are doing a swap.