redtop sr20det internals...wuts more?

[krazykoncepts]

Hey guys,

I am currently getting a sr20det engine and tranny rebuilt. Here is the list of internals that are currently going into the engine. Is there anything i am overlooking? Also how much hp at the crank do you think this setup should be good for?

Hone/machine bores - 80
Zero deck the block - 100
Balance rotating ass. - 150
Valve lapping - 50
Port Mach intake/exhaust - 400
Nismo rings - 125
Nismo rod bearings - 150
Nismo main bearings - 150
Nismo thrust bearing - 50
Nismo rear/front main seal - 30
Nissan valve stem seals - 80
New SR water pump - 170
New SR oil pump - 130
ARP Head stud set - 130
ARP rod stud set - 130
Cometic head gasket - 100
Machined flywheel - 150
Nismo/Unisia Street clutch - 325
DD pressure plate - 200
HD release bearing - 40
New SR clutch fork - 25
New 3/4 clutch cylinder - 75
New Synchros - 190
New bearings - 200
New seals - 50

Cam angle sensor - 150

prices are in cnd dollars btw
thanks

[fliprayzin240sx]

Your rebuilding it but still using stock used rods and pistons??? Why dont you use some of that money and buy some Eagle rods and CP pistons...then use stock nissan bearings instead of nismo? I wouldnt even do none of that stuff in the head till you get better valve springs and maybe over sized valves.

[andrewmp6]

why not use power enterprise nismo is just oem parts with a fancy name flip is right build up the buttom end then do the head later on

[krazykoncepts]

how much power do you think the block can sustain with the mods i listed?

im not looking to make crazy power i just want a sr thats relatively reliable. And yes i know it matter on alot of other thing such as fuel, n air but lets not get into that now

[nsn240]

Your rebuilding it but still using stock used rods and pistons??? Why dont you use some of that money and buy some Eagle rods and CP pistons...then use stock nissan bearings instead of nismo? I wouldnt even do none of that stuff in the head till you get better valve springs and maybe over sized valves.

completely agree... whats the point? you really should change all that out for forged internals while you have it ripped apart

[daryl337]

meh... ripping it apart is nothing! :P

Me and my friend replaced valve seals in mine just today.... and ive taken the motor apart 3 times. =X

[SRprelude]

i JUST finished rebuilding my SR.....used CP pistons, stock rods, new bearings, oil pump, pick up, chain and tensioner with all new oem head bolts and sr20 gasket kit. As for the head, just get a valve job like I did and dont even bother upgrading anything but the cams - HKS -. Dont bother with all nimo stuff, go mostly OEM unless you plan for more than 300hp.....save some money for other parts you need

[daryl337]

I rebuilt my SR the first time incorrectly (had the goddamn ring end gaps set towards eachother when I installed the pistons.. by accident of course...) so as soon as I put it in... I had pulled it out again.. ripped it down to the block.. re-aligned the rings, put it back together... and then found out that when my motor popped like a cherry (the whole reason I was rebuilding the motor)... I had ruined valve seals on my number 4 cylinder...

To make a long story short, I fixed the #4... and not 10 minutes later number 2 and 3 JUST started to burn oil through their valve seals... so I replaced them... but I think the number 2 cylinder didnt seal very well... so I am going to replace them again just to make fucking sure. xD >:O after that... I would have successfully done all of the work on my motor by itself.

[nismokid]

arp makes cam bolts. i seem to stretch the old ones out and they cost 10 bucks new from nissan and arp where 100 for all of them. i did 89mm cp 9to1 pistons with darton sleeves, lightened and balanced the crank. crower rods arp everything. then i did a light port and polish on the head with tomei valve springs and hks 272 step 2's. on stock block with these head mods, i made 410 to the wheels. at 20psi with a gt2540r turbo with the .86 ar. no traction and only ran a 12.9 at 119 mph. now i have a full race manifold with gt35r. the bottom end can handle it. i was smoking vettes and juiced ta's all day long. (from a roll!) bottom end had no problem when pulled after a year, just went bigger. this motor is addicting, and easy to build and make fast.

[TougeSR20Kid]

definitely agree with the others... do valve work and cams, personally i wouldnt get pistons and rods... from what i've gathered you really dont need em until you go past the 400 mark, definitely change seals, timing chain & tensioners, and studs. plus look for other cheap and easy fixes to do while you have the thing apart... while doing the tranny i noticed you have new clutch fork listed, also replace the nut that it rests on. chances are its worn down. i know it doesnt sound like much but that little sonofabitch made me go through 2 slaves and a lot of hassles

[daryl337]

well on a true rebuild it might be that he SHOULD buy the pistons and rings... check your skirt clearances on your stock motor with your stock pistons.. as well as your ring end gap.

If they are fubar'd... or even a tad bit wide.. I would replace them with newer ones... since if you ever plan on building the motor in the future... its better to do it with a bottom end that has the proper gap and skirt clearances. =D Head bolts are a plus... rocker arm stoppers are nice as well if you plan on revving higher than stock (especially during prolonged revving)...